The Fruit House
The Fruit House is a clearing house for information about fruit-growing, emphasizing the propagation and care of fruit trees for the home orchard, especially those in growing zones 4 and 5.
Lost Apple Project 2026 Propagation Fair
(conducted as virtual event with scions distributed through the mail)
Featuring scions of lost apple varieties custom grafted apple trees
+ Selected Pear Scions, Plum Scions, Apricot Scions, and Cherry Scions will also be available.
Featuring scions of lost apple varieties custom grafted apple trees
+ Selected Pear Scions, Plum Scions, Apricot Scions, and Cherry Scions will also be available.
The 2026 list won't be available until January 1, 2026, but you can get a good idea of what is likely to be available by looking here at last year's variety list. Please come back on January 1 to see the 2026 scions and custom graft threes featuring the Lost Apple cultivars.
Placing Orders for the 2026 Planting Season
Nurseries have completed their inventory of fruit trees, rootstocks, and grafting scion that can be ordered for the spring 2026 planting and grafting season. It is important to get your orders in early because many of the popular varieties sell out early.
Cummins Nursery (located in New York)
Cummins Nursery just announced their 2026 inventory. They have excellent, detailed descriptions of the very wide selection of bare root fruit trees they offer. They have one of the largest selections of Geneva rootstocks for grafting apples (consider the G890 and the G41), both OHxF87 and 97 for pears, Mahaleb for cherries, Lovell peach for stone fruit, and Krymsk 1 (dwarfing and precocious) and Myrobalan for plums. Cummins Nursery also sell sells scions for most of the varieties that it propagates.
One Green World (located in Oregon)
One Green World has it usual good selection of bare root fruit trees, vines, and bushes, but also has a wide selection of rootstocks including Antonovka (full-sized, cold-hardy apple), OHxF 333, Lovell and Nemaguard peach for stone fruit, Mazzard for cherries, and four hard to find plum rootstocks: Krymsk 86, Marianna 2624, St. Julien, and Myrobalan 29C. Of particular interest is Luisa plum, a New Zealand introduction that is only available here in the US through One Green World (you do go on a waiting list, but the wait is worth it).
Burnt Ridge Nursery (located in Washington)
Burnt Ridge Nursery offers a good selection of bare root fruit trees, vines, bushes, rootstocks and scions. In addition to rootstock for apples, pears, and cherries, they have Lovell, Nemaguard, Myrobalan, St. Julian A, and Marriana 2624 for stone fruit propagation
Grandpa's Orchard (located in Michigan)
Grandpa's Orchard carries a lot of the selections introduce by the Harrow Research Station in Ontario, Canada. They won't have their inventory out until early December but you can scan through the descriptions of stone fruit, pears, and apples to order as soon as their inventory is announced. They have a good selection of rootstocks, including Krymsk 5, a hard to find semi dwarfing cherry rootstock.
Maple Valley Orchards (located in Wisconsin)
Maple Valley Orchards, in addition to scion sales, also has a good selection of rootstocks for apples, pears, and stone fruit. They have Krymsk 1, Krymsk 86, and Mariana 2624 for plums.
Fedco Seeds
Fedco Seeds is the only source on this list for Prunus Americana. a rootstock for American, Japanese, hybrid plums, and peaches. Fedco Seeds also sells bare root fruit trees and scion wood.
Notes: If Myrobalan doesn't have "29C" as an extension (Myrobalan 29C) then it is produced by seed vs. clonally produced Myrobalan 29C. Same for St Julian (seedling) vs. St. Julian A (clonally produced)
Cummins Nursery (located in New York)
Cummins Nursery just announced their 2026 inventory. They have excellent, detailed descriptions of the very wide selection of bare root fruit trees they offer. They have one of the largest selections of Geneva rootstocks for grafting apples (consider the G890 and the G41), both OHxF87 and 97 for pears, Mahaleb for cherries, Lovell peach for stone fruit, and Krymsk 1 (dwarfing and precocious) and Myrobalan for plums. Cummins Nursery also sell sells scions for most of the varieties that it propagates.
One Green World (located in Oregon)
One Green World has it usual good selection of bare root fruit trees, vines, and bushes, but also has a wide selection of rootstocks including Antonovka (full-sized, cold-hardy apple), OHxF 333, Lovell and Nemaguard peach for stone fruit, Mazzard for cherries, and four hard to find plum rootstocks: Krymsk 86, Marianna 2624, St. Julien, and Myrobalan 29C. Of particular interest is Luisa plum, a New Zealand introduction that is only available here in the US through One Green World (you do go on a waiting list, but the wait is worth it).
Burnt Ridge Nursery (located in Washington)
Burnt Ridge Nursery offers a good selection of bare root fruit trees, vines, bushes, rootstocks and scions. In addition to rootstock for apples, pears, and cherries, they have Lovell, Nemaguard, Myrobalan, St. Julian A, and Marriana 2624 for stone fruit propagation
Grandpa's Orchard (located in Michigan)
Grandpa's Orchard carries a lot of the selections introduce by the Harrow Research Station in Ontario, Canada. They won't have their inventory out until early December but you can scan through the descriptions of stone fruit, pears, and apples to order as soon as their inventory is announced. They have a good selection of rootstocks, including Krymsk 5, a hard to find semi dwarfing cherry rootstock.
Maple Valley Orchards (located in Wisconsin)
Maple Valley Orchards, in addition to scion sales, also has a good selection of rootstocks for apples, pears, and stone fruit. They have Krymsk 1, Krymsk 86, and Mariana 2624 for plums.
Fedco Seeds
Fedco Seeds is the only source on this list for Prunus Americana. a rootstock for American, Japanese, hybrid plums, and peaches. Fedco Seeds also sells bare root fruit trees and scion wood.
Notes: If Myrobalan doesn't have "29C" as an extension (Myrobalan 29C) then it is produced by seed vs. clonally produced Myrobalan 29C. Same for St Julian (seedling) vs. St. Julian A (clonally produced)
Summary of Learning About Fruit Tree Propagation in 2025
Grafting
This year a grafted a little later and used the cleft graft and saw a measurable increase in success in field grafting. I was waiting for a span of two weeks where the weather forecast showed no late frosts. This resulted in grafting when leaves were emerging and there were warm temperatures for the callusing process to form the union between the cambium of the understock and the cambium of the scion. This is consistent with a discussion on the Growing Fruit forum about timing for field grafting. The consensus was that warmer is better and you can use the leafing out of the understock as a good indicator of when it is warm enough for good callusing to take place. The other thing I did was rely more on the simple cleft graft. The cleft graft is easy and quick to execute. I had a great success rate, even with Japanese plums.
This year a grafted a little later and used the cleft graft and saw a measurable increase in success in field grafting. I was waiting for a span of two weeks where the weather forecast showed no late frosts. This resulted in grafting when leaves were emerging and there were warm temperatures for the callusing process to form the union between the cambium of the understock and the cambium of the scion. This is consistent with a discussion on the Growing Fruit forum about timing for field grafting. The consensus was that warmer is better and you can use the leafing out of the understock as a good indicator of when it is warm enough for good callusing to take place. The other thing I did was rely more on the simple cleft graft. The cleft graft is easy and quick to execute. I had a great success rate, even with Japanese plums.
Chip Budding Classes for 2025
Although this is a past event, information about the 2025 class will remain up on this site so that people can see the content of the course and can consider attending when it is offered in 2026.
The Lost Apple Project is again offering chip budding classes in preparation for the 2025 chip budding season in August.
Location: The Chase farm just south east of Spangle, WA The address is 3717 E. Keevy Road, Spangle, WA 99031.
Instructor: Mike Chase
Cost: The instruction is free with a modest fee of $1.50 for each budstick desired (budsticks from over 50 varieties of fruit trees will be available, including plum, pear, apricot, peach, apple, cherry, mulberry, and grape). Bring an ice chest, ice, and 1 gallon plastic bags to transport budstick back to your refrigerators. Budsitcks have a useful life of about a week.
Dates and Times (several duplicate sessions available):
Saturday, July 26 8:00 am to 10:30 am
Saturday, July 26 3:00 pm-5:30 pm
Sunday, July 27 3:00 pm-5:30 pm
Thursday, July 31 8:00 am to 10:30 am
Thursday, July 31 3:00 pm-5:30 pm
Saturday, August 2 8:00 am to 10:30 am
Saturday, August 2 3:00 pm-5:30 pm
Sunday, August 3 3:00 pm-5:30 pm
How to register: To register for a session contact Mike Chase by email ([email protected]) and indicate the date/time you want to attend.
Content: The classes are 2 and 1/2 hours in length and in addition to supervised practice of executing chip buds, includes the experience of selecting and preparing budsticks, and observation of examples of topworked trees chip budded in 2024, 2023, and 2022.
Preparation for attending class: Everyone attending is encouraged to read carefully my two handouts before the class and also view the You Tube listed. Also check out my additional discussions of chip budding on my site: (https://thefruithouse.weebly.com/chip-budding.html)
Handout #1 Chip Bud Grafting In Pictures
Handout #2 Chip Bud Grafting (Critical Success Factors)
You Tube by J. Sacadura titled "Summer Budding of Plums . . . "
[ J Sacadura's Facebook is https://www.facebook.com/VideoJSacadura/ ]
The Lost Apple Project is again offering chip budding classes in preparation for the 2025 chip budding season in August.
Location: The Chase farm just south east of Spangle, WA The address is 3717 E. Keevy Road, Spangle, WA 99031.
Instructor: Mike Chase
Cost: The instruction is free with a modest fee of $1.50 for each budstick desired (budsticks from over 50 varieties of fruit trees will be available, including plum, pear, apricot, peach, apple, cherry, mulberry, and grape). Bring an ice chest, ice, and 1 gallon plastic bags to transport budstick back to your refrigerators. Budsitcks have a useful life of about a week.
Dates and Times (several duplicate sessions available):
Saturday, July 26 8:00 am to 10:30 am
Saturday, July 26 3:00 pm-5:30 pm
Sunday, July 27 3:00 pm-5:30 pm
Thursday, July 31 8:00 am to 10:30 am
Thursday, July 31 3:00 pm-5:30 pm
Saturday, August 2 8:00 am to 10:30 am
Saturday, August 2 3:00 pm-5:30 pm
Sunday, August 3 3:00 pm-5:30 pm
How to register: To register for a session contact Mike Chase by email ([email protected]) and indicate the date/time you want to attend.
Content: The classes are 2 and 1/2 hours in length and in addition to supervised practice of executing chip buds, includes the experience of selecting and preparing budsticks, and observation of examples of topworked trees chip budded in 2024, 2023, and 2022.
Preparation for attending class: Everyone attending is encouraged to read carefully my two handouts before the class and also view the You Tube listed. Also check out my additional discussions of chip budding on my site: (https://thefruithouse.weebly.com/chip-budding.html)
Handout #1 Chip Bud Grafting In Pictures
Handout #2 Chip Bud Grafting (Critical Success Factors)
You Tube by J. Sacadura titled "Summer Budding of Plums . . . "
[ J Sacadura's Facebook is https://www.facebook.com/VideoJSacadura/ ]
Plant species that can be chip-budded: Actinidia (kiwi) Almonds (Prunus) Apples (Malus) Apricot (Prunus) Ash (Fraxinus) Avocado (Persea) Azalea (Rhododendron) Birch (Betula) Blackgum (Nyssa) Buckeye (Aescalus) Cherry (Prunus) Chestnut (Castanea) Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster) Dogwood (Cornus) Elm (Ulmus) Ginkgo Grape (Vitus) Hackberry (Celtis) Hawthorn (Crataegus) Hazelnut (Corylus) Hollies (Ilex) Bean tree (Laburnum) Linden (Tilia) Locust (Gleditsia) Macadamia Magnolias Mango (Mangifera) Maples (Acer) Mountain Ash (Sorbus) Mulberry (Morus) Oaks, English (Quercus) Osage Orange (Maclura) Pawpaw (Asimina) Peaches (Prunus) Pears (Pyrus) Pecan (Carya) Pistachio (Pistacia) Persimmon (Diospyros) Quince (Cydonia) Redbud (Cercis) Rhododendron Rose (Rosa) Saskatoon (Amelachier) Serviceberry (Amelanchier) Sweetgum (Liquidamber) Walnut (Juglans) [Bulman, 1989]
Why chip bud? While grafting techniques like the whip 'n tongue and cleft grafting are widely used for the propagation of new fruit trees (using whip 'n tongue and cleft graft) and for topworking established fruit trees (using bark graft, side graft, cleft graft, and whip 'n tongue) by hobbyist, chip budding is actually much more widely used for the propagation of new trees (99% plus new fruit trees are propagated using chip budding in commercial nurseries). Chip budding can also be used effectively in topworking.
Some of the advantages of chip budding are the elimination of the need to store dormant scions for long period of time, the economy of using a single bud vs. a section of scion material with two buds (you usually only get two or three grafts from a single dormant scion vs. 10 or more buds per bud stick that is the same length as a scion). Also chip budding requires less physical strength than grafting techniques and can be executed in less time by persons with little knife shills.
Preparation for attending class: Everyone attending is encouraged to read carefully my two handout before the class and also view the You Tube listed. Also check out my additional discussions of chip budding on the site (https://thefruithouse.weebly.com/chip-budding.html)
Handout #1 Chip Bud Grafting In Pictures
Handout #2 Chip Bud Grafting (Critical Success Factors)
You Tube by J. Sacadura's "Summer Budding of Plums . . . "
[ J Sacadura's Facebook is https://www.facebook.com/VideoJSacadura/ ]
Why chip bud? While grafting techniques like the whip 'n tongue and cleft grafting are widely used for the propagation of new fruit trees (using whip 'n tongue and cleft graft) and for topworking established fruit trees (using bark graft, side graft, cleft graft, and whip 'n tongue) by hobbyist, chip budding is actually much more widely used for the propagation of new trees (99% plus new fruit trees are propagated using chip budding in commercial nurseries). Chip budding can also be used effectively in topworking.
Some of the advantages of chip budding are the elimination of the need to store dormant scions for long period of time, the economy of using a single bud vs. a section of scion material with two buds (you usually only get two or three grafts from a single dormant scion vs. 10 or more buds per bud stick that is the same length as a scion). Also chip budding requires less physical strength than grafting techniques and can be executed in less time by persons with little knife shills.
When does chip budding take place? Chip budding typically takes place in August when many of the buds on current year growth have entered a state of "rest." The "resting bud" is found under the leaf petiole where the leaf attaches to the stem of the current year's growth.
Process of Chip Budding The chip with the bud is placed in August, heals (adheres to shoot on which it is placed - through a callusing process), goes dormant along with the host plant throughout the winter, and begins growth the following spring. After the new budded shoot emerges, the shoot of the host plant above the bud is cut off so that new shoot can grow without competition. Below is an example of the growth by July 4th of buds placed the previous August. Of the 6 Luisa Japanese plum buds placed on a Marianna GF8-1 in August of 2024, some grew about 18 inches, while others were over 30 inches long and beginning to branch.
[Although the content about the Ft. Scott class is of a past event I am leaving some of the content up so that people can see the likely content of a similar event in 2026.]
Grafting and Pruning Classes near Ft. Scott, Kansas
as part of the Shead Farm Homestead Festival
May 17, 2025
Learn about the Shead Farm Homestead Festival here.
In addition to free brief grafting and pruning demonstrations at the Shead Farm Homestead Festival on May 17th, classes will be offered on the afternoon of Sunday, May 18th, and the morning and early afternoon of Monday, May 19th. To register for any of those classes contact Vickie Shead at [email protected]
Grafting Class
Date and Time: Sunday, May 18 from 1 to 4 pm OR Monday from 9 am to 12 am (duplicate session)
Location: Shead Farm, 2468 Calvary Road, Garland, Kansas 66741
Instructor: Mike Chase
Sign Up Contact Person: Vickie Shead by e-mail at [email protected]
Cost: $20
Content of Grafting Class:
This grafting class provides a hands-on experience in preparing, placing, securing, and wrapping several major kinds of bench grafts including the whip and tongue graft, chip bud graft, and cleft graft on fruit tree root stock and the use of the cleft graft, side graft, and the bark graft in topworking existing fruit trees. Participants gain valuable practice in the alignment of cambium layer of the scion and the cambium layer of the understock and of ensuring proper coverage of exposed grafting wounds, both of which are crucial to grafting success. The class also provides a conceptual understanding of the callusing process and the critical elements of after-care of grafted material.
Some participants will be taking the course in order to topwork mature trees in their orchard, while others plan to use their new expertise to do bench grafts to build out their home orchard. Since there is a large amount of material to be covered in a three-hour class attempting to expose participants to the five major grafting techniques, participants are asked to go through the preparatory reading and You Tube viewing in the section below with a heading in green titled "Preparation for 2025 Grafting Class" (you will have to scroll down a ways to get to it). Below are handouts you will be receiving when you come to the class. If you would like a preview you can take a look at the printable Word documents below:
Basic Steps In Grafting
Bark Grafting
Cleft Grafting
Side Grafting
Whip and Tongue Grafting, Page 1
Whip and Tongue Grafting, Page 2
Chip Bud Grafting
I will have grafting knives available for use by the participants of the class. I usually have participants rotate the knives among themselves so that each gets a chance to experience the handling characteristics of each knife. This comparison enables participants to later buy the knife that best suits them (most, but not all, are available on Amazon). Also the participants have exposure to the various wrapping materials and can make more informed purchases of supplies for their own future grafting.
To save your spot in the 2025 grafting class contact Vickie Shead by e-mail at [email protected]
Pruning Fruit Trees Class
Date and Time: Sunday, May 18th at 4 - 6 pm OR Monday, May 19th from 1 to 3 pm (duplicate session)
Location: Shead Farm, 2468 Calvary Road, Garland, Kansas 66741
Instructor: Mike Chase
Sign Up Contact Person: Vickie Shead by e-mail at [email protected]
Cost: $10
Content of Fruit Tree Pruning Class:
To prepare for fruit tree pruning instruction on May 18th or May 19th you should work through the material under the "Pruning Info" menu on this website. Even though it will be arduous, take the time to wade through all of the Dominik Schreiber You Tubes (the are pure gold) that I have listed and my commentary on them. Additionally, consider getting (at your library or on Amazon) the Richard Bird book on pruning which I consider the best, without peer, pruning book for the home orchardist (How about that for an over-the-top recommendation!). The Richard Bird book comes in two versions: Pruning Fruiting Plants or The Illustrated Practical Encyclopedia of Pruning, Training, & Topidary (larger book, contains all of the text/illustrations of Pruning Fruiting Plants, plus sections on other kinds of pruning such as ornamental). These are both available on Amazon as used books at a fair price. Many public libraries will also have one or both of these. Illustrations are detailed and practical (how-to) and cover both training and pruning. I especially like the inclusion of both dormant season cuts (branches shown without leaves) and summer cuts (shown with red cut marks on branches with leaves). When you get your copy turn first to the page titled "Fruit tree shapes" and then across to the opposite page at the illustrations under "Fruit Tree Shapes". This will help orient you to what is to come.
As you read and watch You Tube video's (at the "Pruning Info" drop down menu on this website) in preparation for this fruit tree pruning class pay special attention any to discussion of where the fruit is found on apple/pear/European plums vs. peaches/apricots/Japanese plums vs. cherries. Also note when and why a "heading cut" is made on each type of fruit tree. When pruning ornamentals you almost never make a heading cut! Why is this - what is different about fruit trees? What is "branch renewal" and why is it used with fruit trees but not with ornamentals? You should be getting a sense that this class will not be helpful to you if you are wanting to prune an ornamental trees, but will be exceptionally useful if you want to prune fruit trees so that you get fruit. To give you a preview of what you will be learning when you come to the May 18th or May 19th classes, I have provided links to digital copies of the handouts you will receive (click on choices below to download a printable Word document for each topic).
Central Leader Pruning
Open Center Pruning
Cherry Tree Pruning Styles
To save your spot in the 2025 fruit tree pruning class contact Vickie Shead by e-mail at [email protected]
In addition to free brief grafting and pruning demonstrations at the Shead Farm Homestead Festival on May 17th, classes will be offered on the afternoon of Sunday, May 18th, and the morning and early afternoon of Monday, May 19th. To register for any of those classes contact Vickie Shead at [email protected]
Grafting Class
Date and Time: Sunday, May 18 from 1 to 4 pm OR Monday from 9 am to 12 am (duplicate session)
Location: Shead Farm, 2468 Calvary Road, Garland, Kansas 66741
Instructor: Mike Chase
Sign Up Contact Person: Vickie Shead by e-mail at [email protected]
Cost: $20
Content of Grafting Class:
This grafting class provides a hands-on experience in preparing, placing, securing, and wrapping several major kinds of bench grafts including the whip and tongue graft, chip bud graft, and cleft graft on fruit tree root stock and the use of the cleft graft, side graft, and the bark graft in topworking existing fruit trees. Participants gain valuable practice in the alignment of cambium layer of the scion and the cambium layer of the understock and of ensuring proper coverage of exposed grafting wounds, both of which are crucial to grafting success. The class also provides a conceptual understanding of the callusing process and the critical elements of after-care of grafted material.
Some participants will be taking the course in order to topwork mature trees in their orchard, while others plan to use their new expertise to do bench grafts to build out their home orchard. Since there is a large amount of material to be covered in a three-hour class attempting to expose participants to the five major grafting techniques, participants are asked to go through the preparatory reading and You Tube viewing in the section below with a heading in green titled "Preparation for 2025 Grafting Class" (you will have to scroll down a ways to get to it). Below are handouts you will be receiving when you come to the class. If you would like a preview you can take a look at the printable Word documents below:
Basic Steps In Grafting
Bark Grafting
Cleft Grafting
Side Grafting
Whip and Tongue Grafting, Page 1
Whip and Tongue Grafting, Page 2
Chip Bud Grafting
I will have grafting knives available for use by the participants of the class. I usually have participants rotate the knives among themselves so that each gets a chance to experience the handling characteristics of each knife. This comparison enables participants to later buy the knife that best suits them (most, but not all, are available on Amazon). Also the participants have exposure to the various wrapping materials and can make more informed purchases of supplies for their own future grafting.
To save your spot in the 2025 grafting class contact Vickie Shead by e-mail at [email protected]
Pruning Fruit Trees Class
Date and Time: Sunday, May 18th at 4 - 6 pm OR Monday, May 19th from 1 to 3 pm (duplicate session)
Location: Shead Farm, 2468 Calvary Road, Garland, Kansas 66741
Instructor: Mike Chase
Sign Up Contact Person: Vickie Shead by e-mail at [email protected]
Cost: $10
Content of Fruit Tree Pruning Class:
To prepare for fruit tree pruning instruction on May 18th or May 19th you should work through the material under the "Pruning Info" menu on this website. Even though it will be arduous, take the time to wade through all of the Dominik Schreiber You Tubes (the are pure gold) that I have listed and my commentary on them. Additionally, consider getting (at your library or on Amazon) the Richard Bird book on pruning which I consider the best, without peer, pruning book for the home orchardist (How about that for an over-the-top recommendation!). The Richard Bird book comes in two versions: Pruning Fruiting Plants or The Illustrated Practical Encyclopedia of Pruning, Training, & Topidary (larger book, contains all of the text/illustrations of Pruning Fruiting Plants, plus sections on other kinds of pruning such as ornamental). These are both available on Amazon as used books at a fair price. Many public libraries will also have one or both of these. Illustrations are detailed and practical (how-to) and cover both training and pruning. I especially like the inclusion of both dormant season cuts (branches shown without leaves) and summer cuts (shown with red cut marks on branches with leaves). When you get your copy turn first to the page titled "Fruit tree shapes" and then across to the opposite page at the illustrations under "Fruit Tree Shapes". This will help orient you to what is to come.
As you read and watch You Tube video's (at the "Pruning Info" drop down menu on this website) in preparation for this fruit tree pruning class pay special attention any to discussion of where the fruit is found on apple/pear/European plums vs. peaches/apricots/Japanese plums vs. cherries. Also note when and why a "heading cut" is made on each type of fruit tree. When pruning ornamentals you almost never make a heading cut! Why is this - what is different about fruit trees? What is "branch renewal" and why is it used with fruit trees but not with ornamentals? You should be getting a sense that this class will not be helpful to you if you are wanting to prune an ornamental trees, but will be exceptionally useful if you want to prune fruit trees so that you get fruit. To give you a preview of what you will be learning when you come to the May 18th or May 19th classes, I have provided links to digital copies of the handouts you will receive (click on choices below to download a printable Word document for each topic).
Central Leader Pruning
Open Center Pruning
Cherry Tree Pruning Styles
To save your spot in the 2025 fruit tree pruning class contact Vickie Shead by e-mail at [email protected]
Alumni June 7th Pruning and Grafting Refresher Update
Chase Hobby Orchard In Spangle
To give you a preview of what you will be learning when you come to the June 7th Alumni Update. The Alumni Update is free for anyone who has attended one of my grafting, chip budding, or pruning classes in the past. I have provided links to digital copies of the handouts addressing themes that will be covered during the update (click on choices below to download a printable Word document for each topic).
Central Leader Pruning
Open Center Pruning
Cherry Tree Pruning Styles
Basic Steps In Grafting
Bark Grafting
Cleft Grafting
Side Grafting
Whip and Tongue Grafting, Page 1
Whip and Tongue Grafting, Page 2
Chip Bud Grafting
Central Leader Pruning
Open Center Pruning
Cherry Tree Pruning Styles
Basic Steps In Grafting
Bark Grafting
Cleft Grafting
Side Grafting
Whip and Tongue Grafting, Page 1
Whip and Tongue Grafting, Page 2
Chip Bud Grafting
Past Grafting & Pruning Classes
In Eastern Washington For 2025
(Although this is a past event, the announcement is being left up so that you can see what we covered in our 2025 class, since this is likely to be similar to what we do in our 2026 classes.)
Grafting Class
Date: Saturday, April 12th
Time: 9:30 am to 1:00 pm
Location: Chase Farm at 3717 E. Keevy Road, Spangle, WA 99031
Instructor: Mike Chase
Sign Up Contact Person: Dana Combest (email: [email protected] )
Cost: $35 ($25 for members of the Huckleberry Range Community Collective)
Content of Grafting Class:
This grafting class provides a hands-on experience in preparing, placing, securing, and wrapping several major kinds of bench grafts including the whip and tongue graft, chip bud graft, and cleft graft on fruit tree root stock and the use of the cleft graft, side graft, and the bark graft in topworking existing fruit trees. Participants gain valuable practice in the alignment of cambium layers of the scion and the understock and of ensuring proper coverage of exposed grafting wounds, both of which are crucial to grafting success. The class also provides a conceptual understanding of the callusing process and the critical elements of after-care of grafted material.
Scions of apples, pears, cherries, and plums are available and included in the cost of the course (see list down below at the end of this announcement. Some participants will be taking the course in order to topwork mature trees in their orchard, while others plan to use their new expertise to do bench grafts to build out their home orchard. If preparing bench grafts you can go to the section just below titled in large green letters "Time To Order Rootstocks and Trees for 2025 Planting" to purchase rootstocks needed for grafting. You should order desired rootstocks as soon as possible because the nurseries tend run out of certain rootstocks before the beginning of grafting season.
To find out more about the content of the class and do the reading and You Tube preparation for the class scroll way down to the large green heading titled, "Preparation for 2025 Grafting Class."
I will have grafting knives available for use by the participants of the class. I usually have participants rotate the knives among themselves so that each gets a chance to experience the handling characteristics of each knife. This comparison enables participants to later buy the knife that best suits them (most, but not all, are available on Amazon). Also the participants have exposure to the various wrapping materials and can make more informed purchases of supplies for their own future grafting.
Cost of class includes grafting supplies used in the class, two apple rootstocks, and scions for grafting in home orchard.
To save your spot in the 2025 grafting class contact Dana Combest by e-mail at tbananadana@gmail.com.
Scions Available To Grafting Class Participants:
Apple scions include: Crispin, Gala, King (of Tompkins's County), Scarlet Surprise, Summer Red, Sansa, Snapp Stayman
Pear scions include: Blake's Pride, Clara Frijs, Harvest Queen, Shenandoah, Shinko, Summercrisp, Sunrise, Ubileen, Warren
Plum scions include: Bavey's Gage, Black Ice, Friar, Green Gage, Imperial Epineuse, Italian, Methley, Moyer, Mt Royal, Oblinja, Oka, Opal, Prune D' Agen, Shiro, Superior, Yakima, Valor, Vision
Cherry scions include: Bing, Blushing Gold, Danube, English Morello, Kristin, Lapins, Rainier, Sam, Sitka, Skeena, Stella
Pruning Class
Date: Saturday, April 12th
Time: 1:30 pm to 4:30 pm
Location: Chase Farm at 3717 E. Keevy Road, Spangle, WA 99031
Instructor: Mike Chase
Sign Up Contact Person: Dana Combest (email: [email protected] )
Cost: $25 ($15 for members of the Huckleberry Range Community Collective)
Content of Grafting Class:
To prepare for the pruning instruction on April 12th I encourage you to work through the material under the "Pruning Info" menu on this website. Additionally, consider getting (at your library or on Amazon) the Richard Bird book on pruning which I consider the best, without peer, pruning book for the home orchardist. The Richard Bird book comes in two versions: Pruning Fruiting Plants or The Illustrated Practical Encyclopedia of Pruning, Training, & Topidary (larger book, contains all of the text/illustrations of Pruning Fruiting Plants). These are both available on Amazon as used books at a fair price. Many public libraries will also have one or both of these. Illustrations are detailed and practical (how-to) and cover both training and pruning. I especially like the inclusion of both dormant season cuts (branches shown without leaves) and summer cuts (shown with red cut marks on branches with leaves). When you get your copy turn first to the page titled "Fruit tree shapes" and then across to the opposite page at the illustrations under "Fruit Tree Shapes". This will help orient you to what is to come.
My orchard has trees of various ages to illustrate the different pruning and training processes used with trees in various stages of development (including a couple of older trees in need of more radical cuts for rejuvenation. Especially valuable in our time together on April 12th is being able to compare and contrast the distinctive strategies used for pruning apples, pears, and European plums vs. peaches, apricots, and Japanese plums vs. landscape trees.
To save your spot in the 2025 pruning class contact Dana Combest by e-mail at [email protected].
Date: Saturday, April 12th
Time: 9:30 am to 1:00 pm
Location: Chase Farm at 3717 E. Keevy Road, Spangle, WA 99031
Instructor: Mike Chase
Sign Up Contact Person: Dana Combest (email: [email protected] )
Cost: $35 ($25 for members of the Huckleberry Range Community Collective)
Content of Grafting Class:
This grafting class provides a hands-on experience in preparing, placing, securing, and wrapping several major kinds of bench grafts including the whip and tongue graft, chip bud graft, and cleft graft on fruit tree root stock and the use of the cleft graft, side graft, and the bark graft in topworking existing fruit trees. Participants gain valuable practice in the alignment of cambium layers of the scion and the understock and of ensuring proper coverage of exposed grafting wounds, both of which are crucial to grafting success. The class also provides a conceptual understanding of the callusing process and the critical elements of after-care of grafted material.
Scions of apples, pears, cherries, and plums are available and included in the cost of the course (see list down below at the end of this announcement. Some participants will be taking the course in order to topwork mature trees in their orchard, while others plan to use their new expertise to do bench grafts to build out their home orchard. If preparing bench grafts you can go to the section just below titled in large green letters "Time To Order Rootstocks and Trees for 2025 Planting" to purchase rootstocks needed for grafting. You should order desired rootstocks as soon as possible because the nurseries tend run out of certain rootstocks before the beginning of grafting season.
To find out more about the content of the class and do the reading and You Tube preparation for the class scroll way down to the large green heading titled, "Preparation for 2025 Grafting Class."
I will have grafting knives available for use by the participants of the class. I usually have participants rotate the knives among themselves so that each gets a chance to experience the handling characteristics of each knife. This comparison enables participants to later buy the knife that best suits them (most, but not all, are available on Amazon). Also the participants have exposure to the various wrapping materials and can make more informed purchases of supplies for their own future grafting.
Cost of class includes grafting supplies used in the class, two apple rootstocks, and scions for grafting in home orchard.
To save your spot in the 2025 grafting class contact Dana Combest by e-mail at tbananadana@gmail.com.
Scions Available To Grafting Class Participants:
Apple scions include: Crispin, Gala, King (of Tompkins's County), Scarlet Surprise, Summer Red, Sansa, Snapp Stayman
Pear scions include: Blake's Pride, Clara Frijs, Harvest Queen, Shenandoah, Shinko, Summercrisp, Sunrise, Ubileen, Warren
Plum scions include: Bavey's Gage, Black Ice, Friar, Green Gage, Imperial Epineuse, Italian, Methley, Moyer, Mt Royal, Oblinja, Oka, Opal, Prune D' Agen, Shiro, Superior, Yakima, Valor, Vision
Cherry scions include: Bing, Blushing Gold, Danube, English Morello, Kristin, Lapins, Rainier, Sam, Sitka, Skeena, Stella
Pruning Class
Date: Saturday, April 12th
Time: 1:30 pm to 4:30 pm
Location: Chase Farm at 3717 E. Keevy Road, Spangle, WA 99031
Instructor: Mike Chase
Sign Up Contact Person: Dana Combest (email: [email protected] )
Cost: $25 ($15 for members of the Huckleberry Range Community Collective)
Content of Grafting Class:
To prepare for the pruning instruction on April 12th I encourage you to work through the material under the "Pruning Info" menu on this website. Additionally, consider getting (at your library or on Amazon) the Richard Bird book on pruning which I consider the best, without peer, pruning book for the home orchardist. The Richard Bird book comes in two versions: Pruning Fruiting Plants or The Illustrated Practical Encyclopedia of Pruning, Training, & Topidary (larger book, contains all of the text/illustrations of Pruning Fruiting Plants). These are both available on Amazon as used books at a fair price. Many public libraries will also have one or both of these. Illustrations are detailed and practical (how-to) and cover both training and pruning. I especially like the inclusion of both dormant season cuts (branches shown without leaves) and summer cuts (shown with red cut marks on branches with leaves). When you get your copy turn first to the page titled "Fruit tree shapes" and then across to the opposite page at the illustrations under "Fruit Tree Shapes". This will help orient you to what is to come.
My orchard has trees of various ages to illustrate the different pruning and training processes used with trees in various stages of development (including a couple of older trees in need of more radical cuts for rejuvenation. Especially valuable in our time together on April 12th is being able to compare and contrast the distinctive strategies used for pruning apples, pears, and European plums vs. peaches, apricots, and Japanese plums vs. landscape trees.
To save your spot in the 2025 pruning class contact Dana Combest by e-mail at [email protected].
Time To Order Trees and Rootstock for 2025 Planting
What follows is an annotated list of the nurseries that I have looked to for fruit trees and rootstock over the past 14 years as I have built up a hobby orchard with 200+ different varieties in a Zone 5 growing area. I am a satisfied customer of all of them. I am posting this now (early fall of 2024) to encourage everyone to place their orders early while there is still a good inventory of trees and rootstocks for March 2025 delivery.
Burnt Ridge Nursery (Washington state): They have a good selection of varieties, good prices (in low $30's for most, and even below $30 for apples), and lower shipping costs for those of us in the western part of the US. They have a pretty wide selection of rootstock, including something for cherries, plums, peaches, apricots, pears, as well as apples. They also sell apple scion wood. About 1/4 of my 200+ varieties came from Burnt Ridge Nursery.
COSTCO: They offer great prices (you can pick among the trees on the rack in the store) and include some multi-variety trees as well. Their supplier for the past several years has been Haworth Nursery, a large wholesale nursery in Oregon. They (COSTCO stores) don't have a catalog of the varieties carried. You have to check in with them weekly throughout their selling season (usually late February through mid March in Zone 5) because they don't have all of their stock at one time (it also varies from year to year and from store to store). Sometimes they have many more trees in the back room that they haven't put out yet and if you ask, you can look through them, as well. It may seem strange to have a non-nursery , but innovative retailer, on a list of specialized nurseries, but they have been the source of about 1/4 of my orchard. One caution: If you live in an area with fire blight, you have to avoid most of the apples and most of the pears at COSTCO because the varieties of apples and pears they have are typically not fire blight resistant (see list of blight resistant varieties below in section titled "Selecting Pears and Apples to Plant in Spring 2024"). Most years they have a good selection of sweet cherries, but a very sparse selection of peaches and apricots. Although they usually have a few kinds of plums, few if any make it on to my Top 10 list (see below under heading "Other Plums - 2023 Review" - you need to get them from one of the other nurseries in this list). Another caution: If the trees have been in the warm Costco building for too long, they will start to break bud and it is not safe to store them outside until the ground thaws (usually not a problem is you live in Zone 6 or 7 because you can go ahead and plant them). If you live in Zone 4 or 5 and it is still winter, keep them in a cool garage or basement until it is safe to plant them.
Cummins Nursery (upstate New York): Really wide selection of desirable varieties. Most of the trees are priced in the mid - $30 range. They have the widest selection of Geneva apple rootstock of any of the nurseries on this list, a wide selection of other rootstock (e.g., they have Krymsk 1 which is hard to find), and apple and pear scion wood. For people in the East, Cummins will have lower shipping costs than getting trees from the Western nurseries on this list.
I recommend only Geneva apple rootstock for those in regions with fire blight. Washington State University has been evaluating the various selections of Geneva rootstock and you can read about their work here.
Fedco Trees (Maine): Good selection with most trees just under $40 (in high $30's). Lower cost shipping for those in the East. Good selection of varieties. They also sell scion wood and a variety of rootstocks. They are the only source on this list of nurseries that has Prunus americana rootstock (for Asian plums and interspecifics).
Grandpa's Orchard (Michigan): Really wide selection of desirable varieties including lots of those hardy and disease resistant varieties' developed at the Harrow research center in Ontario, Canada. They won't be posting their prices until the first of December, but last year nearly everything was just under $40. They also have a good selection of rootstock and are the only one on this list offering Krymsk 5 for size controlling cherries.
Mehrabyan Nursery (upstate New York): Pretty good variety and very good prices with most trees just below $30 and apples below $25. Have apple and pear rootstock for areas that don't have fire blight.
One Green World (Oregon): Excellent variety in their offerings and priced mostly in the mid to high $30 range with a few into the mid $40 range. Also, excellent selection of rootstocks. One Green World is the only nursery in the U.S. that has Luisa plum this year.
[ If you live in Canada you can get Luisa from Whiffletree Farm & Nursery, the only other place in North America you can get this plum. ]
Raintree Nursery (Washington state): Wide selection, but at a higher price than the other nurseries on this list. Prices from $60 up. They have a good selection of rootstock that are in the same price range as the other nurseries on this list. They have Krymsk 1 which is hard to find.
Schlabach's Nursery (New York):You can call for a catalog at (866)600-5203 or send a request to Schlabach's Nursery, 2784 Murdock Road, Medina, NY 14103. To order, you mail your order and check. Since they are in a fire blight region they are careful to specify which pears and apples are resistant to fire blight Nice trees at a reasonable price. Also have orchard supplies and books.
Stark Brothers Nursery (Missouri): Pretty good variety with some exclusives. Priced from about $50 to about $85 with the average being about $70. Price usually includes shipping.
Quick note on pricing at Raintree and Stark Brothers: As you work through the inventory and prices at the various nurseries listed above you will see that Raintree and Stark Brothers are substantially higher than the others. This is somewhat offset for some of their inventory because both of these nurseries run specials that are 25% or 35% off the regular price. Their pricing and these special discounts on certain items may be a method used by them to manage their inventory,
Van Well Nursery (Washington state): I'm going to add one wholesaler to the list that actually makes provision for retail customers to buy from them. Van Well has many exclusive varieties not available through retail nurseries listed above. Although Van Well is a wholesale nursery serving the commercial fruit growing industry, they also serve non-commercial customers as well (see "Non-commercial Pricing" under "Sales" menu choice). Sometimes several amateur fruit growers band together to place a joint order to get a volume price through Van Well.
See "Rootstock" menu choice under "Grafting" menu for a detailed discussion of commonly used rootstocks for apples, pears, and stone fruit.
Burnt Ridge Nursery (Washington state): They have a good selection of varieties, good prices (in low $30's for most, and even below $30 for apples), and lower shipping costs for those of us in the western part of the US. They have a pretty wide selection of rootstock, including something for cherries, plums, peaches, apricots, pears, as well as apples. They also sell apple scion wood. About 1/4 of my 200+ varieties came from Burnt Ridge Nursery.
COSTCO: They offer great prices (you can pick among the trees on the rack in the store) and include some multi-variety trees as well. Their supplier for the past several years has been Haworth Nursery, a large wholesale nursery in Oregon. They (COSTCO stores) don't have a catalog of the varieties carried. You have to check in with them weekly throughout their selling season (usually late February through mid March in Zone 5) because they don't have all of their stock at one time (it also varies from year to year and from store to store). Sometimes they have many more trees in the back room that they haven't put out yet and if you ask, you can look through them, as well. It may seem strange to have a non-nursery , but innovative retailer, on a list of specialized nurseries, but they have been the source of about 1/4 of my orchard. One caution: If you live in an area with fire blight, you have to avoid most of the apples and most of the pears at COSTCO because the varieties of apples and pears they have are typically not fire blight resistant (see list of blight resistant varieties below in section titled "Selecting Pears and Apples to Plant in Spring 2024"). Most years they have a good selection of sweet cherries, but a very sparse selection of peaches and apricots. Although they usually have a few kinds of plums, few if any make it on to my Top 10 list (see below under heading "Other Plums - 2023 Review" - you need to get them from one of the other nurseries in this list). Another caution: If the trees have been in the warm Costco building for too long, they will start to break bud and it is not safe to store them outside until the ground thaws (usually not a problem is you live in Zone 6 or 7 because you can go ahead and plant them). If you live in Zone 4 or 5 and it is still winter, keep them in a cool garage or basement until it is safe to plant them.
Cummins Nursery (upstate New York): Really wide selection of desirable varieties. Most of the trees are priced in the mid - $30 range. They have the widest selection of Geneva apple rootstock of any of the nurseries on this list, a wide selection of other rootstock (e.g., they have Krymsk 1 which is hard to find), and apple and pear scion wood. For people in the East, Cummins will have lower shipping costs than getting trees from the Western nurseries on this list.
I recommend only Geneva apple rootstock for those in regions with fire blight. Washington State University has been evaluating the various selections of Geneva rootstock and you can read about their work here.
Fedco Trees (Maine): Good selection with most trees just under $40 (in high $30's). Lower cost shipping for those in the East. Good selection of varieties. They also sell scion wood and a variety of rootstocks. They are the only source on this list of nurseries that has Prunus americana rootstock (for Asian plums and interspecifics).
Grandpa's Orchard (Michigan): Really wide selection of desirable varieties including lots of those hardy and disease resistant varieties' developed at the Harrow research center in Ontario, Canada. They won't be posting their prices until the first of December, but last year nearly everything was just under $40. They also have a good selection of rootstock and are the only one on this list offering Krymsk 5 for size controlling cherries.
Mehrabyan Nursery (upstate New York): Pretty good variety and very good prices with most trees just below $30 and apples below $25. Have apple and pear rootstock for areas that don't have fire blight.
One Green World (Oregon): Excellent variety in their offerings and priced mostly in the mid to high $30 range with a few into the mid $40 range. Also, excellent selection of rootstocks. One Green World is the only nursery in the U.S. that has Luisa plum this year.
[ If you live in Canada you can get Luisa from Whiffletree Farm & Nursery, the only other place in North America you can get this plum. ]
Raintree Nursery (Washington state): Wide selection, but at a higher price than the other nurseries on this list. Prices from $60 up. They have a good selection of rootstock that are in the same price range as the other nurseries on this list. They have Krymsk 1 which is hard to find.
Schlabach's Nursery (New York):You can call for a catalog at (866)600-5203 or send a request to Schlabach's Nursery, 2784 Murdock Road, Medina, NY 14103. To order, you mail your order and check. Since they are in a fire blight region they are careful to specify which pears and apples are resistant to fire blight Nice trees at a reasonable price. Also have orchard supplies and books.
Stark Brothers Nursery (Missouri): Pretty good variety with some exclusives. Priced from about $50 to about $85 with the average being about $70. Price usually includes shipping.
Quick note on pricing at Raintree and Stark Brothers: As you work through the inventory and prices at the various nurseries listed above you will see that Raintree and Stark Brothers are substantially higher than the others. This is somewhat offset for some of their inventory because both of these nurseries run specials that are 25% or 35% off the regular price. Their pricing and these special discounts on certain items may be a method used by them to manage their inventory,
Van Well Nursery (Washington state): I'm going to add one wholesaler to the list that actually makes provision for retail customers to buy from them. Van Well has many exclusive varieties not available through retail nurseries listed above. Although Van Well is a wholesale nursery serving the commercial fruit growing industry, they also serve non-commercial customers as well (see "Non-commercial Pricing" under "Sales" menu choice). Sometimes several amateur fruit growers band together to place a joint order to get a volume price through Van Well.
See "Rootstock" menu choice under "Grafting" menu for a detailed discussion of commonly used rootstocks for apples, pears, and stone fruit.
Selecting Pears and Apples to Plant in Spring 2025
My main criteria for selecting pears and apples is their resistance to fire blight, which is a serious problem in our area. Thankfully, fruit breeders have been breeding and selecting with disease resistance in mind.
Here is a list of European pear varieties with resistance to fire blight: Ayers, Blake's Pride, Cold Snap, Dana Hovey, Gem, Golden Spice, Hood, Honey Sweet, Harrow Crisp, Harrow Delight, Harrow Gold, Harrow Sweet, Harvest Queen, Lucious, Magness/Starking Delicious, Maxine, Moonglow, Potomac, Shenandoah, Sunrise, Vermont Beauty, Ubileen, Ure, and Warren.
Here is a list of Asian pear varieties with resistance to fire blight: Chojuro, Kosui, Kikusul, Olympic (Korean Giant), Seuri, Shinko, Shinsui, Singo, Lse Li, and Ya Li.
Here is a list of apples with "high resistance" to fire blight: Jonafree, Melrose, Northwestern Greening, Nova Easy Gro, Prima, Pricilla, Quinete, Redfree, Sir Prince, and Winesap. Those with "resistance" include Crimson Topaz, Empire, Enterprise, Goldrush, Haralson, Honeycrisp, Jonagold, Jonamac, Liberty, McIntosh, Northern Spy, Novamac, Pixie Crunch, Pristine, Red Delicious, Spartan, Sundance, Williams Pride, and Winecrisp.
When reading descriptions of apples or pears on nursery websites or in nursery catalogs that does not specifically say that a particular apple variety is resistant to fireblight, is susceptible to fireblight. It is not enough for the nursery description to say a variety is "disease resistant", it must say "resistant to fireblight" before you have confidence that it will survive in your area if you have fireblight in your area.
If you live in an area that has no problem with fire blight, count yourself a lucky fruit grower and get a Cox's Orange Pippin apple and a Clapp's Favorite pear. To learn about the Cox Orange Pippin check out this Word document.
Here is a list of European pear varieties with resistance to fire blight: Ayers, Blake's Pride, Cold Snap, Dana Hovey, Gem, Golden Spice, Hood, Honey Sweet, Harrow Crisp, Harrow Delight, Harrow Gold, Harrow Sweet, Harvest Queen, Lucious, Magness/Starking Delicious, Maxine, Moonglow, Potomac, Shenandoah, Sunrise, Vermont Beauty, Ubileen, Ure, and Warren.
Here is a list of Asian pear varieties with resistance to fire blight: Chojuro, Kosui, Kikusul, Olympic (Korean Giant), Seuri, Shinko, Shinsui, Singo, Lse Li, and Ya Li.
Here is a list of apples with "high resistance" to fire blight: Jonafree, Melrose, Northwestern Greening, Nova Easy Gro, Prima, Pricilla, Quinete, Redfree, Sir Prince, and Winesap. Those with "resistance" include Crimson Topaz, Empire, Enterprise, Goldrush, Haralson, Honeycrisp, Jonagold, Jonamac, Liberty, McIntosh, Northern Spy, Novamac, Pixie Crunch, Pristine, Red Delicious, Spartan, Sundance, Williams Pride, and Winecrisp.
When reading descriptions of apples or pears on nursery websites or in nursery catalogs that does not specifically say that a particular apple variety is resistant to fireblight, is susceptible to fireblight. It is not enough for the nursery description to say a variety is "disease resistant", it must say "resistant to fireblight" before you have confidence that it will survive in your area if you have fireblight in your area.
If you live in an area that has no problem with fire blight, count yourself a lucky fruit grower and get a Cox's Orange Pippin apple and a Clapp's Favorite pear. To learn about the Cox Orange Pippin check out this Word document.
Selecting Plums to Plant in Spring 2025
You can find the recently update review of plums and plum rootstock here. This evaluation can be helpful in determining which plum varieties to purchase now for planting in March 2025. Try to select varieties that span the entire plum season (late July to early November).
Chip Budding Classes in July, 2024
Offered by the Lost Apple Project in Stevens County and Spokane County
Although there are no more chip budding classes this season, the information is being left up in order for viewers to see how we approached the instruction on chip budding. The classes on chip budding in 2025 will be similar (announced in April of 2025).
Who is the class for?
Yes, the class is for fruit tree enthusiasts, after all this website has "fruit" in its name. But it turns out that chip budding is also of interest to lots of other gardeners and landscape enthusiasts who can use chip budding for propagating shrubs (e.g., roses, lilac, azaleas, rhododendrons, etc.), shade/landscape trees (e.g., magnolia, maple, gingko , linden, buckeye, etc.) and bushes/vines (e.g., kiwi, grapes, hackberry, etc.). Check out a fuller list here and here (see last page). The chip budding skills learned in this class can be used with all the various varieties found on theses lists.
Dates/times & Locations:
Classes were offered in both Stevens County and Spokane County.
Cost:
The chip budding class is $25.
Price includes instruction, materials for chip budding, and 5 bud sticks for home orchard chip budding.
[ Special Note On Bud Sticks: This past weekend I was out surveying the 2024 growth on the bud sticks I was planning to bring for the class to practice with and also to distribute to participants to take home for chip budding in their own orchards. There has been good growth considering we are only at the end of June. I will be collecting bd sticks (apple, pear, apricot, Japanese plum, European plum, both tart and sweet cherries) the for the classes the morning the the classes so there will be additional growth by the time of the classes. Bring your cooler with ice to keep your bud sticks in optimal condition until you can do your home chip budding. ]
Instructor:
Mike Chase will be the instructor for the class. He has placed information on this website (see links below) to provide the background needed to complete the 2 1/2 hour class and successfully chip bud on rootstock and trees in participant's home orchard.
Preparation for July Chip Budding Class:
Download the two chip budding handouts here and here.
View material in the chip budding section of this website here.
Also view material under the heading of "Critical Success Factors When Chip Budding" here.
[ Comment about the value of live class to learn chip budding: If you look over the resources under "Preparation for July Chip Budding Class" you can see that I have aggregated enough information about chip budding on this website that a person can use the material to acquire the knowledge and skills (through practice) that you can actually chip bud successfully without a formal class (basically a web-based course on chip budding). However, there are subtleties in the use of a budding knife and the execution of typing and wrapping tasks that are hard to communicate in just pictures and text. In the live class I use a specialized clinic approach to help participants focus on the subtilities of knife movement and tying/wrapping techniques used in chip budding that include real-time feedback to participants as they engage in chip budding sub-tasks. This is why it is necessary to keeps the classes small. ]
Yes, the class is for fruit tree enthusiasts, after all this website has "fruit" in its name. But it turns out that chip budding is also of interest to lots of other gardeners and landscape enthusiasts who can use chip budding for propagating shrubs (e.g., roses, lilac, azaleas, rhododendrons, etc.), shade/landscape trees (e.g., magnolia, maple, gingko , linden, buckeye, etc.) and bushes/vines (e.g., kiwi, grapes, hackberry, etc.). Check out a fuller list here and here (see last page). The chip budding skills learned in this class can be used with all the various varieties found on theses lists.
Dates/times & Locations:
Classes were offered in both Stevens County and Spokane County.
Cost:
The chip budding class is $25.
Price includes instruction, materials for chip budding, and 5 bud sticks for home orchard chip budding.
[ Special Note On Bud Sticks: This past weekend I was out surveying the 2024 growth on the bud sticks I was planning to bring for the class to practice with and also to distribute to participants to take home for chip budding in their own orchards. There has been good growth considering we are only at the end of June. I will be collecting bd sticks (apple, pear, apricot, Japanese plum, European plum, both tart and sweet cherries) the for the classes the morning the the classes so there will be additional growth by the time of the classes. Bring your cooler with ice to keep your bud sticks in optimal condition until you can do your home chip budding. ]
Instructor:
Mike Chase will be the instructor for the class. He has placed information on this website (see links below) to provide the background needed to complete the 2 1/2 hour class and successfully chip bud on rootstock and trees in participant's home orchard.
Preparation for July Chip Budding Class:
Download the two chip budding handouts here and here.
View material in the chip budding section of this website here.
Also view material under the heading of "Critical Success Factors When Chip Budding" here.
[ Comment about the value of live class to learn chip budding: If you look over the resources under "Preparation for July Chip Budding Class" you can see that I have aggregated enough information about chip budding on this website that a person can use the material to acquire the knowledge and skills (through practice) that you can actually chip bud successfully without a formal class (basically a web-based course on chip budding). However, there are subtleties in the use of a budding knife and the execution of typing and wrapping tasks that are hard to communicate in just pictures and text. In the live class I use a specialized clinic approach to help participants focus on the subtilities of knife movement and tying/wrapping techniques used in chip budding that include real-time feedback to participants as they engage in chip budding sub-tasks. This is why it is necessary to keeps the classes small. ]
Buying Grafting Supplies for Grafting
In a segment further down this landing page titled "Preparation for 2025 Grafting Class" is a detailed listing of your options for supplies for use in grafting. Here I am listing a few of the essentials needed and how to find sources (often not found on Amazon).
Budding Rubbers (called "rubber budding stripes" in some listings): Google "rubber budding strips". Used to apply pressure to whip and tongue graft and cleft graft. You want the 3/8" x 8" size. They are sensitive to sunlight and breakdown readily from exposure to sunlight. Don't use repurposed regular rubber bands - they are usually don't breakdown when exposed to sunlight like rubber budding strips do. Rubber budding stripes come in several colors from light tan to reddish brown.
Aglis Buddy Tape: Google "Aglis Buddy Tape". Aglis Buddy Tape is a special version of Parafilm M. Aglis Buddy Tape comes in several variants. You want the Aglis Buddy Film roll that is either 25mm or 30mm wide (one inch, give or take) with perforations that are somewhere between 2 3/4 to 3 inches. You can live with the unperforated roll, but perforated is preferred (much easier to work with). The roll will usually be about 30 meters long. Buddy Tape is used to cover the union that is bound together by the budding rubber on both the whip and tongue graft and the smaller cleft grafts to prevent these graft unions from drying out. Alternatively, some grafters us Doc Farwell's Seal and Heal for this same purpose (prevent union from drying out) on whip and tongue and cleft grafts. Buddy tape will also be used for summer chip budding in August - it covers the chip and provides pressure for a good union and also prevents the union from drying out.
Athletic tape and Doc Farwell's Seal and Heal: If you are doing bark grafts and large cleft grafts you will also need athletic tape and a tree sealant like Doc Farwell's. Get the smallest container possible since it is hard to keep this product over a long time span.
Grafting Knife: I have accumulated several grafting knives that I have people use (I have each person rotate among the different knife options) in my grafting and chip budding classes. This summer while chip budding I switched back and forth among my 5 favorite knives and recently sharpened them for the 2024 season. I can commend all of them to you for holding a good edge and being easy to use for both grafting and chip budding. Although I like all of them, I tend to prefer the ones that have the larger handles. All except the Opinel (third from top) are straight blades with a single bevel and "Rino nose" for lifting bark when bark grafting with. Here is what you are likely to pay for each:
Budding Rubbers (called "rubber budding stripes" in some listings): Google "rubber budding strips". Used to apply pressure to whip and tongue graft and cleft graft. You want the 3/8" x 8" size. They are sensitive to sunlight and breakdown readily from exposure to sunlight. Don't use repurposed regular rubber bands - they are usually don't breakdown when exposed to sunlight like rubber budding strips do. Rubber budding stripes come in several colors from light tan to reddish brown.
Aglis Buddy Tape: Google "Aglis Buddy Tape". Aglis Buddy Tape is a special version of Parafilm M. Aglis Buddy Tape comes in several variants. You want the Aglis Buddy Film roll that is either 25mm or 30mm wide (one inch, give or take) with perforations that are somewhere between 2 3/4 to 3 inches. You can live with the unperforated roll, but perforated is preferred (much easier to work with). The roll will usually be about 30 meters long. Buddy Tape is used to cover the union that is bound together by the budding rubber on both the whip and tongue graft and the smaller cleft grafts to prevent these graft unions from drying out. Alternatively, some grafters us Doc Farwell's Seal and Heal for this same purpose (prevent union from drying out) on whip and tongue and cleft grafts. Buddy tape will also be used for summer chip budding in August - it covers the chip and provides pressure for a good union and also prevents the union from drying out.
Athletic tape and Doc Farwell's Seal and Heal: If you are doing bark grafts and large cleft grafts you will also need athletic tape and a tree sealant like Doc Farwell's. Get the smallest container possible since it is hard to keep this product over a long time span.
Grafting Knife: I have accumulated several grafting knives that I have people use (I have each person rotate among the different knife options) in my grafting and chip budding classes. This summer while chip budding I switched back and forth among my 5 favorite knives and recently sharpened them for the 2024 season. I can commend all of them to you for holding a good edge and being easy to use for both grafting and chip budding. Although I like all of them, I tend to prefer the ones that have the larger handles. All except the Opinel (third from top) are straight blades with a single bevel and "Rino nose" for lifting bark when bark grafting with. Here is what you are likely to pay for each:
- Tina 685 (top): German made - fine knife , but most expensive at somewhere around $65. I don't use my Tina in day-to-day work but keep it in a plastic container. It is my "index" knife - I compare my other knives to it when I sharpen them. If they cut as well as my Tina then I quit sharpening them and start using them for day-to-day work in grafting and chip budding.
- Zenport K106 (second from top): Made in Taiwan with Japanese 440A stainless steel. Plastic handle with nice grip. On Amazon for $12.11. The best price for a high quality knife with the classic grafting/budding blade profile (straight across bottom with single bevel for ease of sharpening and Rhino nose for bark lifting).
- Opinel (third from top): French made - readily available in U.S. and popular in some circles. Very thin blade with double bevel. Comes in several sizes and two steel compositions. Sells for under $20.
- Wenger (fourth from top): Swiss make - not readily available in U.S. and not as popular as most others on list. Price in mid $20's - seems high.
- Victorinox (fifth from top): Swiss made - sells in mid to high $20's. Two blades (second blade has Rhino nose)
- Chinese knock-off (sixth from top): Chinese made with pretty good steel. Reshaped double bevel to single bevel. Bark lifter is on the other end from the blade. Has second blade. Available for under $10 on Amazon.
- Antonini (seventh from top): Italian made (also comes in black plastic, wooden handle, and Old Bear models). Very fine cutting knife with good feel and classic blade profile with single bevel. Red and black plastic handle models delivered for around $20 - excellent value for an excellent knife.
- Jose da Cruz (eighth from top): Made in Portugal - very sharp with double bevel like the Opinel and rotating ring to lock the blade like the Opinel. My favorite You Tube grafter and budder, J. Sacadura, uses this knife. I like the grip given with the big handle on this knife. Will cost in the high $30 range.
- Old Bear Antonini (bottom knife): Blade is like the other Antonini knifes (that I also like), but Old Bear has a very substantial wooden handle (nice grip for a large hand) and has the best blade locking mechanism I've seen on a grafting knife. Available on Amazon in the mid - $30 range.
- Due Buoi (not shown - see at https://www.amazon.com/Due-Buoi-Grafting-Knife-202P/dp/B075CQMMLR?ref_=ast_sto_dp ) Really nicely finished Italian knife. Required no sharpening to be ready to work. Got a left-handed version since I have mostly switched to using a push stroke (vs. pull stroke used by professional grafters as seen in this classic video) when making the first cut on whip and tongue and preparing the scion for cleft, bark, and side grafts.
My main criteria for selecting pears and apples is their resistance to fire blight, which is a serious problem in our area. Thankfully, fruit breeders have been breeding and selecting with disease resistance in mind.
Here is a list of European pear varieties with resistance to fire blight: Ayers, Blake's Pride, Cold Snap, Dana Hovey, Gem, Golden Spice, Hood, Honey Sweet, Houglas Harrow Crisp, Harrow Delight, Harrow Gold, Harrow Sweet, Harvest Queen, Lucious, Magness/Starking Delicious, Maxine, Moonglow, Potomac, Shenandoah, Sunrise, Vermont Beauty, Ubileen, Ure, and Warren.
Here is a list of Asian pear varieties with resistance to fire blight: Chojuro Kosui, Kikusul, Olympic (Korean Giant), Seuri, Shinko, Shinsui, Singo, Lse Li, and Ya Li.
Here is a list of apples with "high resistance" to fire blight: Jonafree, Melrose, Northwestern Greening, Nova Easy Gro, Prima, Pricilla, Quinete, Redfree, Sir Prince, and Winesap. Those with "resistance" include Crimson Topaz, Empire, Enterprise, Goldrush, Haralson, Honeycrisp, Jonagold, Jonamac, Liberty, McIntosh, Northern Spy, Novamac, Pixie Crunch, Pristine, Red Delicious, Spartan, Sundance, Williams Pride, and Winecrisp.
You can assume that any apple or pear variety not specifically listed above is susceptible to fireblight.
If you live in an area that has no problem with fire blight, count yourself a lucky fruit grower and get a Cox's Orange Pippin apple and a Clapp's Favorite pear. To learn about the Cox Orange Pippin and its progeny check out this Word document.
Here is a list of European pear varieties with resistance to fire blight: Ayers, Blake's Pride, Cold Snap, Dana Hovey, Gem, Golden Spice, Hood, Honey Sweet, Houglas Harrow Crisp, Harrow Delight, Harrow Gold, Harrow Sweet, Harvest Queen, Lucious, Magness/Starking Delicious, Maxine, Moonglow, Potomac, Shenandoah, Sunrise, Vermont Beauty, Ubileen, Ure, and Warren.
Here is a list of Asian pear varieties with resistance to fire blight: Chojuro Kosui, Kikusul, Olympic (Korean Giant), Seuri, Shinko, Shinsui, Singo, Lse Li, and Ya Li.
Here is a list of apples with "high resistance" to fire blight: Jonafree, Melrose, Northwestern Greening, Nova Easy Gro, Prima, Pricilla, Quinete, Redfree, Sir Prince, and Winesap. Those with "resistance" include Crimson Topaz, Empire, Enterprise, Goldrush, Haralson, Honeycrisp, Jonagold, Jonamac, Liberty, McIntosh, Northern Spy, Novamac, Pixie Crunch, Pristine, Red Delicious, Spartan, Sundance, Williams Pride, and Winecrisp.
You can assume that any apple or pear variety not specifically listed above is susceptible to fireblight.
If you live in an area that has no problem with fire blight, count yourself a lucky fruit grower and get a Cox's Orange Pippin apple and a Clapp's Favorite pear. To learn about the Cox Orange Pippin and its progeny check out this Word document.
Preparation for 2025 Grafting Class
Improving Grafting Skills - An Introduction
If you have previously spent any time viewing You Tubes about grafting you will have noticed a bit of diversity in how to do certain grafting procedures. One example is something as basic as making slanting cut to start a whip and tongue. Do you pull the knife across your body or do you pull the scion or rootstock while leaving the knife stationary? Or do you push the knife away from you while holding scion still? It is easy to become bewildered, trying to find the one best way for a particular procedure. Don’t worry about finding the one best way, but finding a personal set of techniques that allow you to achieve success in propagating fruit trees. The various text and video resources below will enable you to get a really good start toward that goal. The quote below gives a good framework to thinking about the diversity in technique that we encounter and our individual task of finding and cultivating techniques that work best for us:
"On visiting a number of growers, it was obvious to me that there are many ways of grafting most plants. These may be large differences, such as between budding (attaching a single bud to the rootstock in the field) and grafting (attaching a bud-stick of three or four buds to the rootstock on the bench). Other differences are less obvious, such as waxing or or not waxing a side veneer graft.
There is no single, correct way to graft a plant. There are, however, different ways of successfully grafting. These are not necessarily preferred or better—just different. Therefore, it is not possible to provide one technique for the grafting of each species, there are simply too many options available.” from Peter MacDonald’s The Manual of Plant Grafting (page 10):
That said, I do seek out best practices and seek to understand the scientific principles in back of those practices that are most widely accepted. If you take a grafting knife and some practice scions and execute various grafting techniques you see in the text material and the You Tube videos, you will start refining your own personal approach.
There are a couple of contrasts that have to do with definitions that are worth mentioning before moving on.
Topworking Contrasted With Benching Grafting
In the videos you will hear the terms bench grafting and topworking. Below is a discussion of the differences between these types of grafting:
Bench grafting involves grafting a dormant scion to a rootstock that is not growing in the ground (hence, grafting done on a bench). It is desirable for the rootstock to be just “waking up” and movement of stored nutrients in the root up toward the top of the rootstock. This type of grafting is most commonly done with the whip and tongue graft, the cleft graft, or the chip bud graft, using dormant scions.
Top-working is the name for grafting established trees to another variety. The existing tree, the "stock", is cut back, leaving just one or two limbs (nurse limbs) to supply the tree with energy. Alternatively, you might just topwork one or two limbs to a different variety. This type of grafting can be done just after the sap starts rising and bud break with dormant scions. The methods used include the whip and tongue graft, the cleft graft, the bark graft, the side graft, or (less commonly) the chip bud graft, using dormant scions. Top-working can also take place in the summer (usually late July or early August) using chip budding or T-budding.
Parafilm Contrasted With Polyfilm
In the videos you will here the terms parafilm and polyfilm. Below is a discussion of the differences between these two methods of wrapping grafting union:
Parafilm and Polyfilm can both do the searling task in grafting and budding but the chemistry of the two is not the same.
Parafilm is a tape version of paraffin - the waxy stuff mom used on top of her jelly jars as a seal. It will stretch easily to seal the graft and add enough strength in most cases. It is easy to use, it sticks to itself, and will not require removal later. When chip budding, the buds will poke through one or even two layers.
Polyfilm is much stronger and resists stretching. It is the same stuff that bread bags are made of and some people have even used bread bags as a wrapping material. It will not degrade and must be removed in a few weeks to prevent damage to the emerging bud and the developing cambium. It is often used where extra strength is needed, for example, in the repair of cracked limbs.
Now on to learning about types of grafts . . .
Whip and Tongue Graft
1. Print off the Whip and Tongue Word document you find here. This is a kind of picture gallery depicting whip and tongue "carpentry." Read carefully the captions associated with each of the pictures in this document. This will help you track what you are seeing in the videos.
2. Watch "Grafting 2012/2013" a You Tube video that shows a person executing a whip and tongue union in less than 30 seconds with only five knife strokes and no use of pruning shears. This involves the use of a very sharp knife. Note that he is right handed and executes the slanted cut for both the rootstock and the scion with a pull stroke. Is he pulling the knife (in his right hand) or pulling the rootstock (in his left hand) or both at the same time? The grafting knife he is using has a bevel on only one side. The flat side of a right handed grafting knife faces the slanted cut. The beveled side of the knife faces the part of the rootstock discarded (cut away). How many buds does he want on the scion? Note that the wrapper guy is using parafilm to place pressure on the union of the rootstock and the scion. The parafilm also seals the union. Note that the wrapper guy also dips the top of the scion (it has a cut surface) in warm wax to seal it.
3. Watch "Whip & Tongue Grafting" video of a person at the Salt Spring Apple Company. Note that she does not use a pull stroke on her knife to form the slanted cut on the rootstock or the scion (she uses pruning shears instead). She does use her knife to make the back stroke that is somewhat parallel with the slanted cut she made with the pruning shears. Note that she uses parafilm to compress and seal the union. How does she seal the end of the scion. How many buds does she want on the scion?
At our class last year David Benscoter demonstrated the use of a utility knife blade - based pruning device that allows you cut a very nice long slanted cut (the first cut on both the rootstock and the scion for a whip and tongue graft). This is a method recommended by E.J. Brandt, an active participant in The Lost Apple Project. This device achieves the same thing as the use of hand pruners shown in the Salt Spring Apple Company video. Below are two tools currently available on Amazon that use a utility knife blade like the one demonstrated in class. Thanks, E.J, for the excellent suggestion. If you re-watch the video above you should be able to cut a nice slanting cut with your new E.J. tool, and complete a whip and tongue graft with little effort.
Below I have pictured two of the E.J. tools currently listed on Amazon. Both say they use the SK5 utility knife blade. But there are two styles of SK5's. The Ronan on the bottom uses the blade that was used in the tool we used in our class last year. Note that there are other look alike and work-a-likes on Amazon that use proprietary blades (not the SK5). These are the two that specify the use of SK5 utility blades. The Ronan stores extra SK5 blades in the handle. It would be my first choice because of similarity to the one demonstrated in the class (note that there are other similar Ronan tools, but they don't use the standard SK5 blade).
If you have previously spent any time viewing You Tubes about grafting you will have noticed a bit of diversity in how to do certain grafting procedures. One example is something as basic as making slanting cut to start a whip and tongue. Do you pull the knife across your body or do you pull the scion or rootstock while leaving the knife stationary? Or do you push the knife away from you while holding scion still? It is easy to become bewildered, trying to find the one best way for a particular procedure. Don’t worry about finding the one best way, but finding a personal set of techniques that allow you to achieve success in propagating fruit trees. The various text and video resources below will enable you to get a really good start toward that goal. The quote below gives a good framework to thinking about the diversity in technique that we encounter and our individual task of finding and cultivating techniques that work best for us:
"On visiting a number of growers, it was obvious to me that there are many ways of grafting most plants. These may be large differences, such as between budding (attaching a single bud to the rootstock in the field) and grafting (attaching a bud-stick of three or four buds to the rootstock on the bench). Other differences are less obvious, such as waxing or or not waxing a side veneer graft.
There is no single, correct way to graft a plant. There are, however, different ways of successfully grafting. These are not necessarily preferred or better—just different. Therefore, it is not possible to provide one technique for the grafting of each species, there are simply too many options available.” from Peter MacDonald’s The Manual of Plant Grafting (page 10):
That said, I do seek out best practices and seek to understand the scientific principles in back of those practices that are most widely accepted. If you take a grafting knife and some practice scions and execute various grafting techniques you see in the text material and the You Tube videos, you will start refining your own personal approach.
There are a couple of contrasts that have to do with definitions that are worth mentioning before moving on.
Topworking Contrasted With Benching Grafting
In the videos you will hear the terms bench grafting and topworking. Below is a discussion of the differences between these types of grafting:
Bench grafting involves grafting a dormant scion to a rootstock that is not growing in the ground (hence, grafting done on a bench). It is desirable for the rootstock to be just “waking up” and movement of stored nutrients in the root up toward the top of the rootstock. This type of grafting is most commonly done with the whip and tongue graft, the cleft graft, or the chip bud graft, using dormant scions.
Top-working is the name for grafting established trees to another variety. The existing tree, the "stock", is cut back, leaving just one or two limbs (nurse limbs) to supply the tree with energy. Alternatively, you might just topwork one or two limbs to a different variety. This type of grafting can be done just after the sap starts rising and bud break with dormant scions. The methods used include the whip and tongue graft, the cleft graft, the bark graft, the side graft, or (less commonly) the chip bud graft, using dormant scions. Top-working can also take place in the summer (usually late July or early August) using chip budding or T-budding.
Parafilm Contrasted With Polyfilm
In the videos you will here the terms parafilm and polyfilm. Below is a discussion of the differences between these two methods of wrapping grafting union:
Parafilm and Polyfilm can both do the searling task in grafting and budding but the chemistry of the two is not the same.
Parafilm is a tape version of paraffin - the waxy stuff mom used on top of her jelly jars as a seal. It will stretch easily to seal the graft and add enough strength in most cases. It is easy to use, it sticks to itself, and will not require removal later. When chip budding, the buds will poke through one or even two layers.
Polyfilm is much stronger and resists stretching. It is the same stuff that bread bags are made of and some people have even used bread bags as a wrapping material. It will not degrade and must be removed in a few weeks to prevent damage to the emerging bud and the developing cambium. It is often used where extra strength is needed, for example, in the repair of cracked limbs.
Now on to learning about types of grafts . . .
Whip and Tongue Graft
1. Print off the Whip and Tongue Word document you find here. This is a kind of picture gallery depicting whip and tongue "carpentry." Read carefully the captions associated with each of the pictures in this document. This will help you track what you are seeing in the videos.
2. Watch "Grafting 2012/2013" a You Tube video that shows a person executing a whip and tongue union in less than 30 seconds with only five knife strokes and no use of pruning shears. This involves the use of a very sharp knife. Note that he is right handed and executes the slanted cut for both the rootstock and the scion with a pull stroke. Is he pulling the knife (in his right hand) or pulling the rootstock (in his left hand) or both at the same time? The grafting knife he is using has a bevel on only one side. The flat side of a right handed grafting knife faces the slanted cut. The beveled side of the knife faces the part of the rootstock discarded (cut away). How many buds does he want on the scion? Note that the wrapper guy is using parafilm to place pressure on the union of the rootstock and the scion. The parafilm also seals the union. Note that the wrapper guy also dips the top of the scion (it has a cut surface) in warm wax to seal it.
3. Watch "Whip & Tongue Grafting" video of a person at the Salt Spring Apple Company. Note that she does not use a pull stroke on her knife to form the slanted cut on the rootstock or the scion (she uses pruning shears instead). She does use her knife to make the back stroke that is somewhat parallel with the slanted cut she made with the pruning shears. Note that she uses parafilm to compress and seal the union. How does she seal the end of the scion. How many buds does she want on the scion?
At our class last year David Benscoter demonstrated the use of a utility knife blade - based pruning device that allows you cut a very nice long slanted cut (the first cut on both the rootstock and the scion for a whip and tongue graft). This is a method recommended by E.J. Brandt, an active participant in The Lost Apple Project. This device achieves the same thing as the use of hand pruners shown in the Salt Spring Apple Company video. Below are two tools currently available on Amazon that use a utility knife blade like the one demonstrated in class. Thanks, E.J, for the excellent suggestion. If you re-watch the video above you should be able to cut a nice slanting cut with your new E.J. tool, and complete a whip and tongue graft with little effort.
Below I have pictured two of the E.J. tools currently listed on Amazon. Both say they use the SK5 utility knife blade. But there are two styles of SK5's. The Ronan on the bottom uses the blade that was used in the tool we used in our class last year. Note that there are other look alike and work-a-likes on Amazon that use proprietary blades (not the SK5). These are the two that specify the use of SK5 utility blades. The Ronan stores extra SK5 blades in the handle. It would be my first choice because of similarity to the one demonstrated in the class (note that there are other similar Ronan tools, but they don't use the standard SK5 blade).
Grafting Tool
A couple of years ago in the late summer I was walking for the first time through the backyard orchard of peach and apricot trees of a person that I had been exchanging scion wood with. It was evident that he had made numerous successful grafts, creating some very nice multi variety trees. Peach usually accepts both apricot and plum scions and this person had had amazing success. As I admired the nice growth made on one graft I asked if he had used a whip and tongue or a cleft graft for that particular union. He said he didn't know how to graft and that he had used a grafting tool. At first that didn't sink in - that he didn't know how to graft? This was obviously impressive grafting (great success rate). Just a couple of minutes later I inquired about another nice union with a similar question, adding side graft to the other two grafting techniques usually employed with small branches. When he gave the same answer and saw my quizzical facial expression he could see that I hadn't yet made sense out of his answer and and offered that he would show me the grafting tool after we finished the little tour. When we went in the garage to look at his grafting gear he showed me a device like the brown colored tool down below. We looked on it for a name. No name. Anywhere. He googled "grafting tool" on his phone and showed me a picture of ones you could buy on Amazon for under $50. I had to learn more.
It turned out that the brown colored tool in the picture is the Fieldcraft Topgrafter designed by Raggett Industries in Gisborne, New Zealand. It is available in the US through several distributors. A. M. Leonard has it for $422.49. Several copies of it can be found on Amazon for prices starting at around $30. I bought two from different sources on Amazon for comparison. One was about $30 and the other about $40 and included two rolls of polyfilm and a set of replacement blades. Both units are identical down to the packaging, even though they were from two different venders. Check out the picture below on the left. You can also google "top grafter" and find the tool from other sources outside of the Amazon supply chain.
In April of 2021 I used the Grafting Tool at a relative's place near Ft. Scott, Kansas, with a 25 for 25 success rate with apple scions on Antonova rootstock. That's pretty impressive. The tool basically creates a proprietary cleft-like graft. One of the requirements for success is the rootstock and scion need to be nearly the same size.
A couple of years ago in the late summer I was walking for the first time through the backyard orchard of peach and apricot trees of a person that I had been exchanging scion wood with. It was evident that he had made numerous successful grafts, creating some very nice multi variety trees. Peach usually accepts both apricot and plum scions and this person had had amazing success. As I admired the nice growth made on one graft I asked if he had used a whip and tongue or a cleft graft for that particular union. He said he didn't know how to graft and that he had used a grafting tool. At first that didn't sink in - that he didn't know how to graft? This was obviously impressive grafting (great success rate). Just a couple of minutes later I inquired about another nice union with a similar question, adding side graft to the other two grafting techniques usually employed with small branches. When he gave the same answer and saw my quizzical facial expression he could see that I hadn't yet made sense out of his answer and and offered that he would show me the grafting tool after we finished the little tour. When we went in the garage to look at his grafting gear he showed me a device like the brown colored tool down below. We looked on it for a name. No name. Anywhere. He googled "grafting tool" on his phone and showed me a picture of ones you could buy on Amazon for under $50. I had to learn more.
It turned out that the brown colored tool in the picture is the Fieldcraft Topgrafter designed by Raggett Industries in Gisborne, New Zealand. It is available in the US through several distributors. A. M. Leonard has it for $422.49. Several copies of it can be found on Amazon for prices starting at around $30. I bought two from different sources on Amazon for comparison. One was about $30 and the other about $40 and included two rolls of polyfilm and a set of replacement blades. Both units are identical down to the packaging, even though they were from two different venders. Check out the picture below on the left. You can also google "top grafter" and find the tool from other sources outside of the Amazon supply chain.
In April of 2021 I used the Grafting Tool at a relative's place near Ft. Scott, Kansas, with a 25 for 25 success rate with apple scions on Antonova rootstock. That's pretty impressive. The tool basically creates a proprietary cleft-like graft. One of the requirements for success is the rootstock and scion need to be nearly the same size.
Before leaving the discussion of the use of these alternatives to the grafting knife for making the long slanting cut for the whip and tongue, I want to make a pitch for the necessity of developing knife skills for grafting in order to have flexibility through being able to execute the cleft and side grafts which require knife skills to execute cuts not possible with the utility knife blade-based pruners. There is a lot of flexibility with the cleft graft when there are size differences between the understock and the scion. Knife skills are required to prepare the scion for a cleft graft when there are size differences between the scion and understock. Success in topworking stone fruit (e.g., apricots, peaches, and Asian plums, cherries) is greatly enhanced using the side graft, which requires knife skills.
4. Watch "Grafting Apples with Akiva - Whip and Tongue", video of a left handed grafter. Does he pull his knife hand, the scion, or both when he executes the slanted cut? What is his suggestion on how to make the back cut (the tongue)? How does he compress and seal the union of rootstock and scion. How does he cover the cut end of the scion? What does he do to protect his hands from being cut with his knife?
5. Watch "Whip and Tongue Grafting Demonstration." This guy is using a push stroke with his right hand. This is a very common method of creating the slanted cut for the rootstock and scion for whip and tongue grafting. He is using a left handed knife (even though he is right handed). This means that the flat side of his knife is against the stock he is cutting and the beveled side of the knife is against the discarded wood that is being removed. Note how he makes the back cut on the rootstock and the scion. Also note how he applies pressure to the union and covers the union and the end of the scion.
6. Watch "The BEST GRAFTING techniques for APPLES,PEARS and other fruit trees|Update" video by J Sacadura, paying attention (for now) to only his demonstration of the whip and tongue technique. What does J. do in demonstrating the whip and tongue that is the same as the previous 4 videos? J. does something during his demonstration of whip and tongue that none of the other videos show. What is that?
7. Watch another J. Sacadura selection titled BEST Grafting Techniques using DORMANT SCIONS. Then watch the sequel that shows the results of those grafting techniques - The 4 BEST Grafting Techniques using DORMANT SCIONS | RESULTS after 35 days. Both of these J. Sacadura selections include sections on the whip and tongue technique, but also point us forward to the other techniques to be covered in the class (cleft graft, bark graft, and side graft), all of which use cuts based on the foundational cuts used for the whip and tongue graft.
Although there was quite a bit of variation on executing several parts of the process of completing a whip and tongue graft, there was unanimity on the importance of rocking the knife (vs. slicking straight down) when making the back cut (the tongue).
Go back up above and re-read the quote from Peter MacDonald up above. From what you have seen in those videos you will agree with MacDonald that " There is no single, correct way to graft a plant. There are, however, different ways of successfully grafting. These are not necessarily preferred or better—just different."
Now for some reading and pictures:
1. There are also good discussions with diagrams and pictures of whip and tongue grafting in the following extension bulletins:
Reproducing Fruit Trees by Graftage: Budding and Grafting (from U. of Kentucky Extension).
Grafting and Budding Nursery Crop Plants (from NC State University).
Fruit Tree Propagation - Bench Grafting (from Penn State Extension)
2. Read pages 1-7 in a shortened version Chapter 12 Techniques of Grafting inf Hartmann and Kester's Plant Propagation (see link below). This is a more technical discussion (it is from a chapter in a horticulture textbook used in a college horticulture class) of variations in grafting techniques, followed by a discussion of the whip and tongue and splice (whip graft) which is a whip without a tongue. Bench grafting with the whip and tongue technique involves dormant rootstock and dormant scions. After grafting, the grafted units (the rootstock and attached scion) are placed in storage for callusing at between 40 and 70 degrees for a couple of weeks and then kept at cold storage temperatures of about 35 degrees (to prevent breaking dormancy) until time to set out in late April when danger of severe frost is past. The link to that excerpt from Chapter 12 is here. You can ignore the material from page 8 on for now. We are only paying attention to information related to the whip and tongue at this time.
Most of the prep tasks steer you to You Tubes and short extension bulletins. For those of you that like longer, more thorough treatment of grafting topics I am identifying the 5 best books on the topic, most of which are available through interlibrary loan.
Harmann and Kester's Plant Propagation: Principles and Practices
This is a college text book that has been used in horticulture programs since 1959. It is now in its 9th edition. I used the third edition in the 1970's to teach myself how to graft from looking at the pictures and reading the adjacent text. Chapter 11, Principles of Grafting and Budding, gives the science behind grafting and budding and provides good background for unerstanding why the techniques work. Chapter 12, Techniques of Grafting, covers virtually all grafting techniques in use today. Chapter 13, Techniques, concentrates on chip budding which has been replacing T-budding in recent years due to its versatility (bark does not need to slip) and superior union. Other chapters are useful for those of you interested in propagating your own rootstock.
The Grafter's Handbook by R. J. Garner
This book originates from the UK and has been around since 1947 (most recently updated in 2013) and covers just about every topic you might need to produce rootstock and graft to those rootstock.
The Manual of Plant Grafting: Practical Techniques for Ornamentals, Vegetables, and Fruit by Peter T. MacDonald
Although printed by Timber Press in Portland, Oregon, the author draws most heavily on his contacts in the UK and Europe ("the continent"). It has lots of excellent photos and delves into many practical topics of importance to those involved in the production of plant material for nurseries. Of special value is a summary chart (pp. 178-203) titled "Grafting Methods and Rootstocks for Selected Species."
The Bench Grafter's Handbook: Principles & Practice by Brian E. Humphrey
Three of my top four grafting books (Garner, MacDonald, and Humphrey) originate from the UK. Humphrey's book, like MacDonald's book, this one is printed in the US. At a whopping 637 pages this is a massive encyclopedia of information on grafting. Great pictures, great discussions - just a great book. There are speciality chapters on the unique requirement for grafting particular categories of plants (e.g., Malus, Prunus, Pyrus, Vitus, plus many others).
Before the summer is over try to browse all four of these books by working with your local library and its interlibrary loan system. Although all four books obviously have overlap (they are all about grafting) they each have their own unique flavor and appeal.
If you want to propagate your own rootstock you will find discussions of that topic in all four books listed above. However, I would add one other for consideration: The Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation: From Seed to Tissue Culture by Michael A. Dirr and Charles W. Heuser, Jr.
There is a sixth book that I have together on my shelf with these five, Temperate-Zone Pomology and Culture by Melvin Neil Westwood. This book steers the user to consider the practical issue related to fruit production in our particular region (Westwood's entire professional career was spent in Washington and Oregon). The book is a good blend of the practical with the scientific sides of fruit production.
I guess I couldn't leave well enough alone - I am going to add another book to this list, my favorite generalist book/DVD on fruit growing (which does have an excellent section on grafting). That seventh selection is Michael Phillips' The Holistic Orchard: Tree Fruits and Berries the Biological Way. If I could have only one book to guide me in establishing and maintaining an orchard it would be this one, and since it has a section on grafting, I would be complete. Also try to check out the DVD too, when you get it on interlibrary loan to evaluate for possible purchase.
Grafting Knives
At the class you will have the opportunity to use several grafting knives. You can see from the picture below that grafting knives vary in the shape of the blade and the size and shape of the handle. The Tina fixed blade knife at the top is widely considered the gold standard (and the most expensive at a little over $60). All of the others are under $40, with several in the 20'a and teens. All of those pictured have high quality steel and hold a sharp edge well. It turns out the size and shape of the handle has the most effect on your control while making cuts. For example, if you have a large hand you may find that a knife with a larger handle gives you more control. Then you compare the feel (shape) of large handled knives for the best fit. Likewise if a small handle gives you better control then at the class you can compare the feel of the smaller handled knives. Up above there is another section with this same picture, but with a little more detail on each of the knives (section is titled "Buying Grafting Supplies for 2024 Grafting").
Wrapping Material
In all of the videos you watched the whip and tongue graft union was wrapped with something in order to apply pressure to the joint. This will ensure a rapid healing and the formation of callus cells. Below is a picture showing the most common wrapping materials. On the left is waxed string that has been used in the US for at least a century and is evident in many of the older diagrams of the completed whip and tongue graft (no longer used widely). Next is raffia, a natural fiber (used in many of the J. Sacadura You Tubes. The two white rolls are two variations of parafilm. Parafilm is very stretchy, Some books suggest specifying Parafilm M. Others prefer the Buddy Tape brand of parafilm, especially the one that has perforations every three inches (on the bottom roll there is a 3" piece laying on top of the roll of Buddy Tape) that makes it easy separate a piece of parafilm that will stretch out to about 6 inches which is just about right for most wrapping tasks when making the whip and tongue union. One of the principle virtues of parafilm is that a bud can penetrate through it so it can be used to cover a bud without having to remove it when the bud starts to grow. To the right of the two rolls of parafilm are masking tape (above the word red "Wrapping") and a couple of rolls of polyfilm (below the word in red "Materials"). Both are clear, but the one on the left has a green cast. Then on the right is a bag of budding rubbers (in this case they are 3/8" by 8"). They are called budding rubbers because that is their primary application (used for T-budding but also chip budding as well). All of these wrapping materials can be used to apply pressure to the whip and tongue graft union. During the class you will get a chance to try all of these wrapping materials to help you determine which you would prefer to use.
Cleft Graft
If both the scion and rootstock are the same diameter we usually use a whip and tongue graft. However, when the understock is substantially larger and can be split (opened up) to receive a tapered scion we usually use a cleft graft procedure.
You can find an excellent brief summary with pictures and diagrams here and here. This handout does include a brief section showing the use of cleft grafting where the scion and rootstock/understock are the same size (however the cleft graft is rarely used in this situation - the whip and tongue is more common used when both are the same size). A second handout is provided here. These two documents summarize all the key points in successfully executing the cleft graft for both small understock and larger understock. When the understock is fairly small (up to an inch) you probably can get by with a single scion alligned on one side or the other of the cleft so that the cambium layers of each are touching one another. When you have larger understock you will need to insert two scions, each aligned with the cambium of the understock on either side of the cleft.
Here are some You Tubes of the cleft graft. First, take a look at Stephen Hayes doing some cleft grafts to topwork on some two inch limbs, where you have a large disparity between the size of the scion and the understock. Here is the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XpgbpbewU3E
Here is a link showing the use of the cleft graft where your rootstock are slilghtly oversized and the scions either undersized or the size of a pencil: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IqBYXIr0WDI
I also like J. Sacadura's video on the modified cleft graft: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JjNYr_O5NzQ
One of the things I really like about the modified cleft graft (over a regular cleft graft) is that you achieve better contact between cambiums because the outer part of the cleft is fairly thin and more flexible than the regular cleft graft where you have split the shoot at the half-way point and have the stiffness (vs. flexibility) of the core of the shoot. As a result your success rate should be higher with the modified cleft graft.
If both the scion and rootstock are the same diameter we usually use a whip and tongue graft. However, when the understock is substantially larger and can be split (opened up) to receive a tapered scion we usually use a cleft graft procedure.
You can find an excellent brief summary with pictures and diagrams here and here. This handout does include a brief section showing the use of cleft grafting where the scion and rootstock/understock are the same size (however the cleft graft is rarely used in this situation - the whip and tongue is more common used when both are the same size). A second handout is provided here. These two documents summarize all the key points in successfully executing the cleft graft for both small understock and larger understock. When the understock is fairly small (up to an inch) you probably can get by with a single scion alligned on one side or the other of the cleft so that the cambium layers of each are touching one another. When you have larger understock you will need to insert two scions, each aligned with the cambium of the understock on either side of the cleft.
Here are some You Tubes of the cleft graft. First, take a look at Stephen Hayes doing some cleft grafts to topwork on some two inch limbs, where you have a large disparity between the size of the scion and the understock. Here is the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XpgbpbewU3E
Here is a link showing the use of the cleft graft where your rootstock are slilghtly oversized and the scions either undersized or the size of a pencil: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IqBYXIr0WDI
I also like J. Sacadura's video on the modified cleft graft: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JjNYr_O5NzQ
One of the things I really like about the modified cleft graft (over a regular cleft graft) is that you achieve better contact between cambiums because the outer part of the cleft is fairly thin and more flexible than the regular cleft graft where you have split the shoot at the half-way point and have the stiffness (vs. flexibility) of the core of the shoot. As a result your success rate should be higher with the modified cleft graft.
Bark (or Rind) Graft
When grafting onto a limb or stump that cannot be split open to create a cleft, one of the bark grafting technqiqes it used. This technique is commonly used when a whole orchard block is being topworkded from an out of favor varieity to a variety that has greater market appeal.
However, the technique can also be used to add a variety to a single tree or to topwork a single tree in one's backyard orchard. You can find a handout covering this procedure here.
Summary notes on bark grafting:
As you can see from the number of times I steer you to his You Tubes, I have become a big fan of J. Sacdura's videos on grafting. Take a look at his demonstration of the bark graft here.
When grafting onto a limb or stump that cannot be split open to create a cleft, one of the bark grafting technqiqes it used. This technique is commonly used when a whole orchard block is being topworkded from an out of favor varieity to a variety that has greater market appeal.
However, the technique can also be used to add a variety to a single tree or to topwork a single tree in one's backyard orchard. You can find a handout covering this procedure here.
Summary notes on bark grafting:
- Bark grafting is only done after the understock has begun to bud out (you want the sap flowing in order to create a union between the understock and scion.
- Only done after all danger of sever spring frost is past.
- The number of scions used depends on diameter of the limb or stump being topworked. The larger the diameter, the more scions used. Evenually those scions will completely cover the exposed surface of the cut.
- If possible leave "nurse limbs" to continue to draw nuetrients up from the root.
- The scions must be securely fastened in place so that wind or birds do not dislodge them.
- All cut surfaces (including top ends of scions) must be well covered with a sealant. Be sure to inspect for any cracking of sealand within the first few days and reseal wherever a crack is observed.
As you can see from the number of times I steer you to his You Tubes, I have become a big fan of J. Sacdura's videos on grafting. Take a look at his demonstration of the bark graft here.
Side Graft
The side graft is frequently used in topworking to add varieties of stone fruit to an existing understock. One of the main resons that it is so effective in grafting hard to graft species (e.g., Pawpaw) is that the top of the limb is not removed until after the scion has started to grow. By leaving the top in place, the sap is drawn up past the inserted side graft, thus speeding the formation of callusing cells uniting the two cambiums. You will find one of the best descriptions of the side graft here. I should note that the term "side graft" is used for a few other grafting technqiues found in some books, articles, and You Tubes. What allof the techniques have in common is that the scion is attached in some manner to side of the understock such that the cambiums of rootstock and scion touch so that a callusing union is formed.
J. Sacadura has an excellent You Tube on a variation of the side graft called the "lateral bark graft." Here is a link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A32d0Tuo2rY
That well-illustrated article that I shared above was published in the North American Fruit Explorers (NAFEX) magazine by my grafting mentor, Bob Purvis of Homedale, Idaho. In the first paragraph of the article Bob recounts how he learned (he was trying to solve a grafting problem) of this technique from his mentor Dan Whitney of Whitney's Grafting.
Do you know about NAFEX? Check them out at: https://nafex.org/. They have a wide variety of interest groups and offer a monthly webinar on a timely topic. Membership is only $19 a year. They have two archived webinars on grafting.
The side graft is frequently used in topworking to add varieties of stone fruit to an existing understock. One of the main resons that it is so effective in grafting hard to graft species (e.g., Pawpaw) is that the top of the limb is not removed until after the scion has started to grow. By leaving the top in place, the sap is drawn up past the inserted side graft, thus speeding the formation of callusing cells uniting the two cambiums. You will find one of the best descriptions of the side graft here. I should note that the term "side graft" is used for a few other grafting technqiues found in some books, articles, and You Tubes. What allof the techniques have in common is that the scion is attached in some manner to side of the understock such that the cambiums of rootstock and scion touch so that a callusing union is formed.
J. Sacadura has an excellent You Tube on a variation of the side graft called the "lateral bark graft." Here is a link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A32d0Tuo2rY
That well-illustrated article that I shared above was published in the North American Fruit Explorers (NAFEX) magazine by my grafting mentor, Bob Purvis of Homedale, Idaho. In the first paragraph of the article Bob recounts how he learned (he was trying to solve a grafting problem) of this technique from his mentor Dan Whitney of Whitney's Grafting.
Do you know about NAFEX? Check them out at: https://nafex.org/. They have a wide variety of interest groups and offer a monthly webinar on a timely topic. Membership is only $19 a year. They have two archived webinars on grafting.
Chip Bud
Chip budding is very flexible and can be carried out from April (with dormant scions) to the end of August (summer chip budding using bud sticks of summer growth) in the Spokane/North Idaho area. Start by downloading a copy of a well illustrated handout here. Most of the pictures are of summer chip budding, but the principle are the same for dormant chip budding like what we will be doing at the grafting class with dormant buds on dormant scions.
Next view a short video of dormant season chip budding of apples at the Salt Spring Apple Company:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FOA6j8eekhs&list=UUOMl5Zgi_ZEVpil68cPExBA&index=3&t=87s
Next view anther of J. Sacadura's You Tubes - this time specifically on the chip budding process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=syOLsbr4wrMwww.youtube.com/watch?v=syOLsbr4wrM
Now lets look at how they do this chip bud at Cloud Mountain Nursery: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BK-nNXYoFD8
Although these three videos have given you a pretty good idea about how to execute chip bud graft, there are a couple more that I am throwing your way for good measure. Check out: https:/www.youtube.com/watch?v=8rhb8QBfjws
And: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3-4shUjEx0
Chip budding is very flexible and can be carried out from April (with dormant scions) to the end of August (summer chip budding using bud sticks of summer growth) in the Spokane/North Idaho area. Start by downloading a copy of a well illustrated handout here. Most of the pictures are of summer chip budding, but the principle are the same for dormant chip budding like what we will be doing at the grafting class with dormant buds on dormant scions.
Next view a short video of dormant season chip budding of apples at the Salt Spring Apple Company:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FOA6j8eekhs&list=UUOMl5Zgi_ZEVpil68cPExBA&index=3&t=87s
Next view anther of J. Sacadura's You Tubes - this time specifically on the chip budding process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=syOLsbr4wrMwww.youtube.com/watch?v=syOLsbr4wrM
Now lets look at how they do this chip bud at Cloud Mountain Nursery: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BK-nNXYoFD8
Although these three videos have given you a pretty good idea about how to execute chip bud graft, there are a couple more that I am throwing your way for good measure. Check out: https:/www.youtube.com/watch?v=8rhb8QBfjws
And: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3-4shUjEx0
Aftercare
Completed bench grafts of apples, pears, and European plums are placed in a bucket with moist sawdust/peat moss/perlite mixture (no cedar) around the roots. Cover the bucket with a plastic bag to maintain high humidity (put some bamboo sticks in the bucket that are a little taller than the tallest bench graft to prevent the plastic from resting on any of the bench grafts). Place the bucket in a cool area out of sunlight (a cellar or unheated basement is ideal because the temperatures will be somewhere in the 50's). Be sure that the sawdust mixture always remains moist.
Check at two weeks to see if any of the buds are starting to break. If there is no bud break, continue to check every couple of days. After you have bud break you can pot them (put in protected space - no nighttime freezing) or set them out in a protected garden space (if all risk of frost is past). Don't merley pull them out of the sawdust mix - you risk breaking off newly developing roots. Tip the bucket of scions on its side and carefully remove the bench grafts and shake of the sawdust mixture before planting them.
They need to be well watered through their first year of development. You can use Miracle Grow or a fish fertilizer during their first few months of development, but do not make an additional applications after the middle of August to avoid a late summer growth surge that doesn't have enough time to harden off before late October freezes. You want the new stock to defoliate like established trees in the fall so that you are not injured by heavy freezing in the late fall.
Grafting Grapes
This Preparation for 2025 Grafting Class has discussed the background needed to successfully graft common temperate zone fruit trees like apples, pears, plums, peaches, and apricots. These same skills can also be applied to wide range of other plants like nuts, Paw Paws, roses, and grapes. A link to a J.Sacadura You Tube on grafting grapes is provided here.
This is the end of the section titled "Preparation for 2025 Grafting Class."
Completed bench grafts of apples, pears, and European plums are placed in a bucket with moist sawdust/peat moss/perlite mixture (no cedar) around the roots. Cover the bucket with a plastic bag to maintain high humidity (put some bamboo sticks in the bucket that are a little taller than the tallest bench graft to prevent the plastic from resting on any of the bench grafts). Place the bucket in a cool area out of sunlight (a cellar or unheated basement is ideal because the temperatures will be somewhere in the 50's). Be sure that the sawdust mixture always remains moist.
Check at two weeks to see if any of the buds are starting to break. If there is no bud break, continue to check every couple of days. After you have bud break you can pot them (put in protected space - no nighttime freezing) or set them out in a protected garden space (if all risk of frost is past). Don't merley pull them out of the sawdust mix - you risk breaking off newly developing roots. Tip the bucket of scions on its side and carefully remove the bench grafts and shake of the sawdust mixture before planting them.
They need to be well watered through their first year of development. You can use Miracle Grow or a fish fertilizer during their first few months of development, but do not make an additional applications after the middle of August to avoid a late summer growth surge that doesn't have enough time to harden off before late October freezes. You want the new stock to defoliate like established trees in the fall so that you are not injured by heavy freezing in the late fall.
Grafting Grapes
This Preparation for 2025 Grafting Class has discussed the background needed to successfully graft common temperate zone fruit trees like apples, pears, plums, peaches, and apricots. These same skills can also be applied to wide range of other plants like nuts, Paw Paws, roses, and grapes. A link to a J.Sacadura You Tube on grafting grapes is provided here.
This is the end of the section titled "Preparation for 2025 Grafting Class."
At a library near you . . .
Recently I read reviews of a couple of books on grafting that I asked our county library to get on inter-library loan so that I could look at them in detail. In both cases the local library went ahead and purchased them for our library system. There are both really excellent and I will be reviewing them in this space over the next few weeks on the leadup to grafting season. After that I will move most of the material presented here under the "Grafting Info" menu on this site.
The Manual of Plant Grafting: Practical Techniques for Ornamentals, Vegetables, and Fruit by Peter T. MacDonald
In the introduction MacDonald explains how the content of the book came to be. He notes there was a good mix of a review of what had already been written, what was said in horticultural meeting, and many conversations with those in many places around the world. After reading much of the book already, I think that he has done a really good job of tying together information from all of the many sources into a comprehensive, integrated, and useful whole. But there are two paragraphs in the introductory chapter that are at the same time disconcerting and also hopeful to the grafter looking for a definitive (and perfect) set of techniques that will always yield success.
On page 10 we have these two paragraphs:
"On visiting a number of growers, it was obvious to me that there are many ways of grafting most plants. These may be large differences, such as between budding (attaching a single bud to the rootstock in the field) and grafting (attaching a bud-stick of three or four buds to the rootstock on the bench). Other differences are less obvious, such as waxing or not waxing a side veneer graft.
There is no single, correct way to graft a plant. There are, however, different ways of successfully grafting. These are not necessarily preferred or better-just different. Therefore, it is not possible to provide one technique for the grafting of each species, there are simple to many options available."
That last sentence is really a disappointment - I really did want one option or one technique to so many of the decisions that one makes in grafting. For instance, what is the best material to wrap a chip bud with? Polyfilm? Parafilm? Buddy Tape? A large budding rubber that covers all of the cut surface? The answer is . . . yes. Here is another one: at what temperature should you keep dormant scion wood? This one is not as simple as it sounds. In general you can usually be successful if your refrigerator is at 41 F or lower. However, if you are going to be storing scions for late spring topworking they need to be colder to prevent them from breaking bud prematurely. Ok, but how cold for long-term storage. But how much colder? In practice it appears that there are advocates (with successful experience to back it up) for temperatures down to 28 F.
So with the backdrop of those two paragraphs quoted above from pages 10 I want to steer you to some of the gems that I am finding in MacDonald excellent grafting book.
Watch this space for coming book highlights.
Recently I read reviews of a couple of books on grafting that I asked our county library to get on inter-library loan so that I could look at them in detail. In both cases the local library went ahead and purchased them for our library system. There are both really excellent and I will be reviewing them in this space over the next few weeks on the leadup to grafting season. After that I will move most of the material presented here under the "Grafting Info" menu on this site.
The Manual of Plant Grafting: Practical Techniques for Ornamentals, Vegetables, and Fruit by Peter T. MacDonald
In the introduction MacDonald explains how the content of the book came to be. He notes there was a good mix of a review of what had already been written, what was said in horticultural meeting, and many conversations with those in many places around the world. After reading much of the book already, I think that he has done a really good job of tying together information from all of the many sources into a comprehensive, integrated, and useful whole. But there are two paragraphs in the introductory chapter that are at the same time disconcerting and also hopeful to the grafter looking for a definitive (and perfect) set of techniques that will always yield success.
On page 10 we have these two paragraphs:
"On visiting a number of growers, it was obvious to me that there are many ways of grafting most plants. These may be large differences, such as between budding (attaching a single bud to the rootstock in the field) and grafting (attaching a bud-stick of three or four buds to the rootstock on the bench). Other differences are less obvious, such as waxing or not waxing a side veneer graft.
There is no single, correct way to graft a plant. There are, however, different ways of successfully grafting. These are not necessarily preferred or better-just different. Therefore, it is not possible to provide one technique for the grafting of each species, there are simple to many options available."
That last sentence is really a disappointment - I really did want one option or one technique to so many of the decisions that one makes in grafting. For instance, what is the best material to wrap a chip bud with? Polyfilm? Parafilm? Buddy Tape? A large budding rubber that covers all of the cut surface? The answer is . . . yes. Here is another one: at what temperature should you keep dormant scion wood? This one is not as simple as it sounds. In general you can usually be successful if your refrigerator is at 41 F or lower. However, if you are going to be storing scions for late spring topworking they need to be colder to prevent them from breaking bud prematurely. Ok, but how cold for long-term storage. But how much colder? In practice it appears that there are advocates (with successful experience to back it up) for temperatures down to 28 F.
So with the backdrop of those two paragraphs quoted above from pages 10 I want to steer you to some of the gems that I am finding in MacDonald excellent grafting book.
Watch this space for coming book highlights.
Don't Play With Fire!
Ok, kind of a corny headline for a discussion of fire blight, but it is relevant as many of us make purchases of new apple trees and pear trees to plant in 2022. COSTCO has trees in at many locations, including selections of apples and pears. If you live in an area where fire blight is a problem you should be considering only buying fire blight resistant varieties. Thankfully, researchers have been compiling lists that help you steer away from the susceptible varieties and towards the resistant varieties.
Here is a sorting if a list of apples into susceptibility categories from the eXtension Apples Community of Practice website sponsored by the USDA: https://apples.extension.org/table-of-apple-cultivar-fire-blight-susceptibility/
Here is similar list from the WSU horticulture website: http://treefruit.wsu.edu/article/fire-blight-susceptibility-of-apple-cultivars/
In the Purdue University list they cover both apples and pears and also get into the role rootstock plays in susceptibility and resistance: https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/BP/BP-30-W.pdf
Here is an excellent overview of the factors contributing to fire blight problems and methods of reducing the impact of fire blight on apples and pears:
www2.gov.bc.ca/gov/content/industry/agriculture-seafood/animals-and-crops/plant-health/insects-and-plant-diseases/tree-fruits/fire-blight
If you live in the fruit growing region in southern Idaho check out the links found at: http://pnwpestalert.net/alerts/crop/apple
Utah State University Extension has an excellent publication on dealing with fire blight at: https://extension.usu.edu/pests/uppdl/files/factsheet/fire-blight-08.pdf
One of the nurseries that has the largest selection of apple and pear cultivars on disease resistant rootstock is Cummins Nursery
Ok, kind of a corny headline for a discussion of fire blight, but it is relevant as many of us make purchases of new apple trees and pear trees to plant in 2022. COSTCO has trees in at many locations, including selections of apples and pears. If you live in an area where fire blight is a problem you should be considering only buying fire blight resistant varieties. Thankfully, researchers have been compiling lists that help you steer away from the susceptible varieties and towards the resistant varieties.
Here is a sorting if a list of apples into susceptibility categories from the eXtension Apples Community of Practice website sponsored by the USDA: https://apples.extension.org/table-of-apple-cultivar-fire-blight-susceptibility/
Here is similar list from the WSU horticulture website: http://treefruit.wsu.edu/article/fire-blight-susceptibility-of-apple-cultivars/
In the Purdue University list they cover both apples and pears and also get into the role rootstock plays in susceptibility and resistance: https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/BP/BP-30-W.pdf
Here is an excellent overview of the factors contributing to fire blight problems and methods of reducing the impact of fire blight on apples and pears:
www2.gov.bc.ca/gov/content/industry/agriculture-seafood/animals-and-crops/plant-health/insects-and-plant-diseases/tree-fruits/fire-blight
If you live in the fruit growing region in southern Idaho check out the links found at: http://pnwpestalert.net/alerts/crop/apple
Utah State University Extension has an excellent publication on dealing with fire blight at: https://extension.usu.edu/pests/uppdl/files/factsheet/fire-blight-08.pdf
One of the nurseries that has the largest selection of apple and pear cultivars on disease resistant rootstock is Cummins Nursery
Other Articles of Interest to Fruit Growers:
Growing Rootstock from Seed
Rootstock for some stone fruit can be propagated from seed. Check out Tree Seeds for seeds on which to graft peaches, plums, apricots and Pawpaw. If you live in an area without a fire blight problem they also have apple and pear seed as well. If you live in Canada you can get fruit tree seeds for rootstock from The Incredible Seed Co.
Grafting Knives
Read a discussion about grafting knives here.
The Quest For Recovering Lost Apples
Lost (and recently rediscovered) apple varieties will be available through bud stick sale in early August. Here are some interesting stories about the quest to recover old varieties thought gone forever.
Lost Apple Project Success in 2021
Continued success in discovering lost apple varieties is chronicled in this recent article. The Lost Apple Project leaders hope to have scions of some of these varieties available at its 2022 scion sale. You will find more information about he Lost Apple Project at links below under the heading below titled, "The Quest For Recovering Lost Apples."
Strategy for Buying Fruit Trees for Home Orchard
Check out the home orchard page on this site with recommendations for purchasing fruit trees for spring planting.
Here is a link to an article that has suggestions for selecting fruit trees, with an excellent discussion about where to plant a new fruit tree in your yard: https://happydiyhome.com/how-to-choose-a-fruit-tree/
Strategies for Managing Suckers Around Fruit Trees
Here is a link to an excellent article addressing methods of coping with suckers around fruit tees.
Strategy for Rejuvenating Old Neglected Trees
Even though a tree is old, neglected, and not very productive does not mean that it can not be rejuvenated. Click here for a link on this site that gives excellent guidelines for pruning older trees and bringing them back into production.
Articles from the 2021 grafting season being left up in anticipation of the 2022 grafting season:
Lost Apple Project Training Event
(I am leaving up the info on this past event in 2021 because I am planning to offer the budding workshops again in 2023- watch for the announcement in late spring for the summer training event.
Chip Budding and T-Budding
Dates: Duplicate classes offered on July 31 and August 7 (both sessions start at 8 am)
Location: Farm of Mike Chase, 3717 E. Keevy Road, Spangle, WA
Instructor: Mike Chase - see https://thefruithouse.weebly.com/chip-budding.html material to read in preparation for workshop)
Cost: Donation to Lost Apple Project (recommend $20 per person/$25 per couple)
Registration: Contact Mike Chase at [email protected] to register for this training event.
Lost Apple Project Scion Sale For 2025 Now Over
Information about the varieties of scions, prices, and shipping information are available here . Note that this sale of these scions and trees ended on February 1, 2025, but we are leaving the info up so people can see the kind of variety that we are likely to have when we have the 2026 scion sale.
Other sources of scions include:
*Burnt Ridge Nursery, Cloud Mountain Farm Center & Nursery, *Cricket Hill Garden, *Cummins Nursery, Fruitwood Nursery, Mad Cat Farm, *Maple Valley Orchards, Ort Family Farm, Planting Justice, *Purvis Nursery & Orchard, *Queener Farm, Scott Farm Orchard, Skipley Farm, and*Three Tree Orchard (google them to bring up ordering information)
The * by the name indicates I have gotten orders from them in the past and was a satisfied customer.
Other sources of scions include:
*Burnt Ridge Nursery, Cloud Mountain Farm Center & Nursery, *Cricket Hill Garden, *Cummins Nursery, Fruitwood Nursery, Mad Cat Farm, *Maple Valley Orchards, Ort Family Farm, Planting Justice, *Purvis Nursery & Orchard, *Queener Farm, Scott Farm Orchard, Skipley Farm, and*Three Tree Orchard (google them to bring up ordering information)
The * by the name indicates I have gotten orders from them in the past and was a satisfied customer.
Site maintained by Mike Chase of Spangle Washington. You can contact him at [email protected]
